Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022 has officially come to a close, and before we virtually head over to Paris to end the season's coverage on an inevitable high note, we're looking back at our favourite moments from the Italian affair. From disco nights with Kim Jones' Fendi womenswear collections; Max Mara's neutral dreamscape; Jil Sander's sharp, inimitable tailored silhouettes, Prada's sensual show; and Versace's anticipated collaboration with Fendi, we saw Italian glamour in full effect, pared back with subtle sexiness and streamlined silhouettes. È finito! Below, are our favourite moments from Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022.
Kim Jones took us to the Discothèque for his Fendi SS22 collection. Inspired by 70s it girls like Bianca Jagger and Grace Jones, Jones' ode to Studio 54 suceeded in making us feel optimistic towards dressing up and going out. Most notably, the collection integrated illustrations from Antonio Lòpez, a queer art icon who reigned over the New York fashion scene in the 60s and 70s. His work was dyed and printed onto coats, silks, and mini dresses as a particularly poignant nod to the times.
A RUSSH favourite for endless seasons, Jil Sander's SS22 show opened on a high note, dominated by sharp tailoring and napkin-like neck scarves. Lapel-less blazers with oversized shoulders were paired with perfectly tailored trousers and statement resin jewellery; burnt orange zebra print crept unexpectedly into undershirts and overcoats; while fluid dresses in silk and crotchet were paired with knee high slouchy boots and layered over top pants, all iterated in joyful pastels and summer colours.
Max Mara wants us to lean into the torso this season. Take me on vacation and wardrobe me in Max Mara's SS22 midriff baring two piece sets, ostrich mini dresses, and flawless overcoats. A neutral dreamscape infused with shocks of citrus for the summer season, Max Mara took us to the seaside and beyond with a rounded collection of fluid pants, boyish tank tops, boxy dresses and ultra-femme mini-skirt sets paired with chunky sandals perfect for the coastline and preppy headbands. Wherever Max Mara is headed, we're along for the ride.
There was a moment in time when we wondered what Raf Simon and Miuccia Prada's world might look like, and by SS22, we have a fairly clear idea of the creative duo's direction, and oh, is it good! For SS22, in a dual show where identical looks made their way down two runways - one in Milan, one in Shanghai - the mood of the moment was clothing for any and all circumstances. Layers were peeled back to reveal more skin and more underwear, with boned bodices and corsetry-style lacing. Underwire was placed in pullover knitwear, and satin skirts were hiked up to reveal maximum leg. For SS22, Prada puts the P in promiscuous.
Sex is in style for Spring Summer 2022, and no one does it quite like Missoni. It was a bare-all affair, and perhaps if we hadn't been cooped up inside for all these months, it may have landed differently, but for now, skin is in. There were form fitting dresses with sinuous straps, signature Missoni zigzags were printed on miniature swimsuits tucked into low slung carpenter pants and trousers, trench coats with cut outs, and bandeau tops to barely cover the bust. Missoni makes a glammed-up comeback, and the time is right to lap it up.
For Moncler's Milan Fashion Week presentation, the brand engaged their global partner, Alicia Keys, to led it's audience, who congregated for an in person viewing in Milan, through MONDOGENIUS, an interactive video spanning 11 collections created in collaboration with 11 notable designers in five cities across the globe including JW Anderson, HYKE, 1017 Alyx 9SM, Craig Green and more.
For Giorgio Armani, his collection, which was an exploration into his personal history, was a smiley affair. The collection, titled Métissage (crossbreeding), took us on a journey through Armenia - a nod to his parents roots - where nomadic tropes of balloon trousers and rope tied waistlines were intercepted with frothy gowns in signature Armani pastels dotted with weightless embroidery. With smiling models and signature codes infused with travel and exploration, Giorgio Armani's SS22 collection made us want to get away.
While not officially on the MFW schedule, an honourable mention goes to Burberry, who showed its imaginative collection in an ambiguous location on September 27 between Milan and Paris. In a tribute to his late mother, Riccardo Tisci played on dreams and the freedom of imagination in an immersive space that saw models clad in the iconic Burberry trench coat, which was deconstructed and rebuilt in experimental silhouettes. Alongside, was swimsuits animated with abstract prints, signature outerwear in soft fawn and dark biscuit shades, halter neck gowns with thigh-high splits and mini dresses adorned with sweeping exaggerated fringing. Moving to the beat of his own rhythm, Burberry SS22 felt intimate, stripped back, sensual,and spectacular, all in the best of ways.