“My FENDI is multi- generational. It’s for all different kinds of women – anyone who wants to feel good about themselves,” Kim Jones, artistic director of Fendi womenswear reflects. “The Lopez woman, and the FENDI woman, is empowered; she’s someone of her own making.”
For his Fendi Spring Summer 22 show, Jones is moved by the high energy likes of Jerry Hall, Tina Chow, Pat Cleveland, Bianca Jagger and Grace Jones in a 1970s ode to the era of glamour.
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The starting point, a logo hand-sketched by visionary fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez which served as the initial inspiration for Jones' second collection under his new title at the Italian House. A nod to Studio 54, Jones' revives the late artists work, translated onto silks which have been cut into shirting and kaftans, applied to shimmering Jacquard, printed onto leather.
Motifs of glamour, going out and getting dressed up buoy the collection like a joyful beacon. Opening with a stark white, modern rendition of a disco suit - a nod to the brands craftsmanship and savoir-faire is on full display in the form of a fluid, yet expertly tailored overcoat, belted atop palazzo pants. It is not long after that classic Italian glamour find its way through, with oversized gold earrings, Lilies adapted from Lopez’s illustrative motifs become enamel hair accessories, and Plexiglass hoops offer a joyful touch alongside glossy makeup and teased out hair.
For his first live show, colour was not to be shied away from, as models moved purposefully down the runway in pastel pinks, oranges, lilacs, and more punchy iterations of fuchsia and mustard. Suiting made itself known with sharp tuxedo jackets layered over top tiny, mesh and satin bralettes, while softer silhouettes were rendered in billowing, floor length kaftans, A line mini dresses, and form fitting midi's.
For Kim Jones' first live runway show with the brand, it is clear there was no shying away from being bold. “This is my first live show for FENDI, and it’s a celebration,” reflects Jones. “Our woman has let loose a bit – she’s going out, dressing up. We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now.”
A collection that almost makes us ache for the days where throwing on a faux fur coat and making our way to the dance floor was second nature, Kim Jones' Fendi Spring Summer 22 show has expertly articulated all that we yearn for, and makes it clear that Fendi is officially down for disco.