They say time is linear, but for Cartier, it is cyclical. Dedicated to reinvention and reimagination, it is this singular vision which guides the House on its mission to make moments in time feel as though they could last forever. This year, at Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the House plays on this vision, revisiting some of the Maison's most iconic styles and introducing unparalleled updates.
As the brand evolves into the future, it reimagines shapes like the Tank Normale – in reference to the very first one, created in 1917 – and the elegant Tank Américaine along with new interpretations of the Pasha, Baignoire, Panthère and Santos de Cartier watches. The Maison also introduces the Clash [Un]limited watch, taking the aesthetic heritage of the Clash collection and evolving it even further.
Below, we take you through all the details of the new watches you can expect from Cartier in 2023.
Each year, Cartier adds a new watch to their Privé collection, a selection of limited-edition numbered watches that the brand calls "the collectors' collection" of its most historic models, so it would only be fitting that the 7th model to join the collection, is the 1917 Tank Normale, the Tank that is one of the Maison's most remarkable creations, and in the history of watchmaking.
This year, Cartier has dreamt up an hour/minute version that borrows the proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal of the original. Available in yellow gold on a brown alligator strap and in platinum on a black alligator strap. To accompany, the Tank Normale is supplied on a yellow gold bracelet or a platinum bracelet, with satin and polished finishes.
The Tank Américaine was originally launched in 1989, and drew its inspiration from the Tank Cintrée's curved case. It was also the first Cartier watch that introduced the first adjustable strap, which evolved into the folding buckle, for which Cartier patented in 1910. This year, Cartier reinforces the original design of the watch and its signature shape by carving a finer, more "acrobatic" line.
Equipped with the new 1899 MC movement for slimmer cases, the Tank Américaine watch comes in all-gold and steel with a
leather strap, rose gold and diamonds with a leather strap or diamond-paved white and rose gold with a metal bracelet. Designed
especially for the Tank Américaine, its links feature polished facets that expertly catch the light.
For 2023, the iconic Santos Dumont is elevated by introducing a new, specially developed 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre. The Maison stays true to the elegance of the original 1904 model, carrying on the legacy of this interesting shape. The new model retains the same style of gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and blue cabochon, the latest Santos-Dumont watch – reinterpreted in 2019 – features a skeleton movement, with each and every structural detail paying tribute to the aviator.
For the Santos-Dumont skeleton watch, rose gold and steel levels up sophistication, while there is another offering of a limited edition style in yellow gold and navy lacquer: all of the details, the bezel and case are lacquered, including the skeleton bridges onto which the lacquer is applied delicately by hand.
The Baignoire watch, named after the French word for "bathtub" has enjoyed many incarnations over the years since its creation in 1912. Staying true to the Maison's philosophy of continuity and cyclical take on time, Cartier tweaks the 2023 version, changing the scale and function of the model.
In a new alignment of proportions, the dial and its signature Roman numerals are crowned with a richer gold ribbon. Cartier explores the oval of the dial, the watch’s hallmark, and transposes it into a bezel to be slipped as close to the wrist as possible. The watch morphs from timepiece to fine jewellery and back again.
Upon seeing the Cartier Clash [Un]limited, one would easily mistake it for an elegant bracelet instead of a timepiece, which is exactly the point of the new model. With beads, picot studs, clou carrés and mobility, the Clash de Cartier codes that we all know and love are married into the form of a precious watch.
From faceted corners and bevelled dials to full and empty spaces, as well as round and square elements, its geometry is constant and true to the Maison’s signature style.
La Panthere De Cartier
Cartier's iconic, emblematic panther is encapsulated into the Maison's latest jewellery watch. With its jaws closed around a black lacquer dial, it is the newest addition to the La Panthère collections.
Imbued with Cartier's unparalleled jewellery-making expertise, the Panther's head has hand finished lacquered polished spots and setting. The three dimensional shape of the big cat is a direct descendant of the jewellery pieces launched in 2005, which introduced geometric cut-outs and sharp angles. Available in yellow or rose gold speckled with black lacquer with tsavorite eyes or in diamond-paved white gold with emerald eyes.