It was a phones up moment when 51 models rose out of a tiled Dior grey metal floor in a box resurrected outside of the École Militaire in Paris for the Dior Spring Summer 24 Men's show on Friday. This is Kim Jones' fifth year at the helm of Dior Menswear, and during his tenure, we've all become accustomed to the fact that his shows supersede any expectation of a simple presentation.
This season was no exception. To the backing of a slowed-down version of Primal Scream’s Higher Than the Sun, the Dior Men's Spring Summer 24 cast appeared as if holographic all at once. Those who weren't capturing the sure-to-be-viral moment clapped, and one by one, the models stepped off of their designated tiles to make a lap around the show space.
We have written about Jones' impeccable knack for archival references before. It is something that is built into his lore as a designer – this ability to take something of before and bring it forward with a new perspective while never feeling overly referential. For this season, he flexed this muscle effortlessly. Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré, and Marc Bohan were all present in the silhouettes, respectful nods to those who have come before him at the House of Dior. Of course, Monsieur Dior was there too, reflected in an emphasis on Dior's signature cannage pattern interpreted onto knit jumpers and woven through tweed coats, twin sets, and onto bags.
The looks came in neat threes. Three simple straight leg suits, three woven dinner jackets followed by three coats of the same fabrication, accessorised with brightly coloured, Stephen Jones-created slouchy beanies adorned with floral pins and socks and sandals; three suits with poplin button downs and colour block piqué polo shirts layered over top, and so on. Amongst Jones' (and Dior's) signature palette of soft blues, Dior grey, tan, cream, and navy, were shocks of neon green, rendered as tiny bags, loafers, polo shirts, and knit cardigans, which also came in hot pink and cyan.
The entire thing had an air of fun about it despite the sci-fi setting, as though the young boys who played dress up in their mother's closets had grown up with an affinity for the same boucle you might find on their lunching jackets. This was especially evident in the final three looks, with cabochon-embellished cardigans slung over the shoulders of slouchy straight suits.
One of Jones' most lauded strengths is giving menswear the couture treatment, and Dior Men's SS24 echoed this ability. Marking his fifth year at the Maison, his legacy is firmly woven into the fabric of Dior.
Watch the full Dior Men's Spring Summer 24 show, below.
On the sidelines, guests were just as fashionably assembled. Australian’s own Felix Mallard in attendance at the show alongside models Winnie Harlow and Amber Valletta, newly minted Dior Beauty ambassador Caleb McLaughlin, and The Bear Season 2 actor Will Poulter.