This year Hermès creative director Véronique Nichanian will celebrate 35 years at the luxury House. Her tenure is marked by a meticulous and unwavering ability to transform menswear with a youthful sensibility, while still holding true to the Hermès heritage. Her Hermès Men's Spring 24 collection only underscores this fact.
As half the globe basks in the summer sun, Hermès shares its own vision of a wardrobe built for the heatwave. Soundtracked to Brandt Brauer Frick's ambient song In Your Head Now and the mellow sound of Off Goes the Light by Bibio, it was a collection, in the words of Nichanian, as "soft and sweet as a summer breeze, stirred by a tender strength".
Sensual, elegant and quietly suggestive of sex, you could almost smell the soft summer musk transferring from skin to silk as guests gathered in the sweltering Palais d’Iéna in Paris.
Pants were loose and laid back, though hems retained a crispness thanks to a thick cuff above the ankle. Meanwhile, shorts were so tiny as to reveal the gradation of models' tans from honey to cream, and arrived in cotton, linen and lambskin.
Everything was gauzy and gossamer, set to a delicate colour palette of icy melon, watery sage, steam and silver that cooled the senses. Blazers, trousers, jumpsuits and anoraks cut from ultralight technical fabric added texture to cloud-like knits, the occasional silk Twilly, and shirts as thin as parchment adorned in the Della Cavalleria print.
Because this is Hermès, leather surfaced, albeit intermittently, throughout, with streamlined Eisenhower jackets, stacked fisherman sandals, and hulking Haut à Courroies bags. Elsewhere belts doubled – because why not multiply the fun?
Just as womenswear borrows from menswear, it was clear that the reverse was happening here, with a fluid dance of elegant silks, silhouettes and tippy-toe lightness.
Explore the Hermès Spring 24 Menswear collection via the video and gallery below.