In the details.
Acne Studios embraced a more adventurous spirit this season, with transparent vests, fringed ponchos and fine knits worn over printed shirts accompanying the label’s signature tailored suiting.
Hedi Slimane’s sophomore menswear collection was a study of eras past. The 70s, which the designer has long-been fascination by, particularly shaped the slim-cut suit silhouettes, open collar shirting and leather panelled jackets.
Straight to the point.
Kim Jones’ Dior man was suited and booted – each model dressed in a variation of precision cut two-pieces and boiler suits with grey or black rubber sole laced boots. Signature CD monograms hung daintily from earrings and key-chains, while the minimalist pastel pink set let the collection do all the talking.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Forget borrowing from the boys – this was a collection we wanted to buy for ourselves. Low cut blouses tucked into crisp white shorts, leather tanks and leopard bombers, and some of the most covetable prints we’ve seen all season. Be mine.
Ying met yang for Jil Sander’s SS 20 menswear collection. Monochrome colourways were rendered in relaxed suiting, with floor length fringing appearing throughout.
Water world. Inspired by the sea, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s final collection for Kenzo was formed around the female free divers in Japan – and the clothes followed suit. Tailored neoprene met mermaid iconography for a wardrobe that had us yearning for an ocean escape.
Off the grid.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection is the one we want to be wearing when we finally decide to abandon our day-to-day grind and live à la the free spirits of the Balearic Islands. Suede caftans and knee length knits forever.
Virgil Abloh took a decidedly softer approach to his Louis Vuitton SS 20 collection, with pale blue, lavender and lemon sorbet coloured pieces accented by wildflowers and back-dropped by Paris’ Place Dauphine.
Abloh called on contemporary artist Futura to customise the opening and closing looks for Off-White’s collection, as models walked the carnation-lined runway in 90s skater-inspired looks and sheer plastic raincoats (a nod to the climate crisis).
Love me tender.
Paris’ Opera Bastille was the setting for Sander Lak’s first menswear collection, a study in male sexuality beyond the gaze of “pure testosterone and sleaze, showcasing garments that were sensual, with sweeping boat necklines and soft layers. A wardrobe for the modern man.
Seventies acid prints and fringed ponchos formed Valentino’s menswear collection this season. Beaded turquoise necklaces beside cross-body mini bags layered over neon coloured shirting and butter soft leather. Take us to Joshua Tree.
We came for the tracksuits but stayed for the suiting – oversized with wide lapels, cross-body buttons and perfectly straight cut trousers. Smooth criminals, indeed.