NYFW Spring 2024 is arguably one of the most exciting weeks in any fashion aficionados calendar this year. Whether you're interested in seeing some of city's best scrappy young designers pull together avant-garde and innovative collections, or you want to watch some of fashion's most notable Houses put together a runway event for the ages, it's guaranteed to be an exhilarating few days.

For those of us not lucky enough to be front row in the Big Apple this week, we're busy compiling all the show highlights and biggest stories from NYFW Spring 2024 so that you can get your head around all the best moments from the week.

 

Helmut Lang

Perhaps the week's most anticipated show was Peter Do's debut as creative director for Helmut Lang. The show opened the week's festivities on Friday afternoon at the cavernous Skylight building at Essex Crossing, a pared-back, minimalist setting. Collaborating with Vietnamese poet Ocean Vuong, block-type prose was plastered across the room's poured concrete floor, and soon found their way onto garments, accompanied by some of Vuong's intimate photography. Garment-wise, suiting was out in force – boxy, cutout blazers paired with louche trousers, and slinky mini dresses contrasted sharply with bulky cocoon-like coats.

 

Sandy Liang

No one seems to understand the fashion of contemporary girlhood quite like Sandy Liang. And this SS24 collection is aplty named "The Virgin Suicides", in homage to Sofia Coppola's directorial debut. All the usual Liang-isms were out on full display – pinks, bows, baby tees and ballet flats. But Liang's collection also introduced a new motif – the humble sea shell, which came printed on T-shirts, and clipped onto earlobes.

 

Collina Strada

If the beguiling smiles of Collina Strada's runway made you feel unnerved, then they achieved exactly what they set out to. For this collection, the brand used AI to input all of their past collections to create a plethora of AI-interpolated design suggestions, which the team then refined and edited down for the runway. As a House known for placing intentional focus on sustainability – it seemed only fitting to have models flash a blank, dead-eyed smile at the end of the runway in a nod to the frivolity of NYFW in a slowly warming world.

 

Dion Lee

Dion Lee showed his Spring Summer 24 collection earlier this week, which continued the Australian designer's exploration of the language of utility; how "toolshed meets atelier" aesthetics. Leather biker boots and tool belts (even some biker boots with attached tool belts), made their way down the runway, contrasted by office-wear staples like crisp white button-downs and fitted black blazers. As the show progressed, looks leant increasingly into the dystopic, encompassing a series of Dune-esque face-shielding hoodies and slouchy khaki and sand-coloured boiler suits.

 

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler have always been about pared-back minimalism, and their SS24 collection served to continue this narrative, rejecting the need for seasonal 'newness' and instead looking to hone and refine some of their House signatures. A meditation on the relationship between art and commerce, the show was held at Phillips’s headquarters on Park Avenue. The collection itself felt louche and sophisticated, iterating many of their House styles and silhouettes – like sheer gauzy layers, and open-back knits.

The collection also introduced Proenza Schouler's first ever monogram design, which reportedly took three years and roughly 9,000 different iterations to create.

 

Tory Burch

Tory Burch's SS24 collection was presented inside the American Museum of Natural History, and explored ideas of minimalism through clean shapes, weightless fabrics and muted, soothing colour palettes. Collarless blazers, draped and tank-style mini dresses, and flouncy knits all made their way down the runway, accompanied by some of the brand's most iconic bags – including their cult Fleming Handbag, which was reimagined for the collection as a minaudière pouch.

Yellow, wraparound sunglasses brought a futuristic, streetwear edge to the otherwise soft and sophisticated presentation.

 

Palomo Spain

Alejandro Gómez Palomo's SS24 presentation in the carpeted and rose-filled Terrace Room of The Plaza Hotel was a knockout display of lace tops, feathered trousers, leather trenches, and distressed and oversized denim, that came together as a near-perfect petri dish of androgyny and sensuality.

“Humans have two sides,” the collection's notes read. "One more animalistic, blinded by carnal desire; and one more romantic, driven by nature and feminine sensuality. The constant battle of both conform each individual’s personality.”

 

 

After more NYFW Spring 2024 content? Here's a look at some of the best street style from the week so far.