If you had told us that the last day of Paris Fashion Week's spring summer 2022 season would end with us questioning the purpose of every high-waisted article of clothing in our wardrobe, we would have hardly believed you. What we had failed to consider, is that Miuccia Prada was yet to play her final card; and if there's one thing we've come to expect from Prada's little sister, it's that nothing is ever off the table. For SS22, Miu Miu is urging us to channel the rebellious private school kid buried deep within us; and we have to say, we're enjoying this reboot of Gossip Girl much better.
Marking the brand's return to real-life runway in 18 months, it was only fitting that Prada continued to do what Miu Miu does best – disrupting the values, norms, and, indeed, dress codes we've become complacent in accepting. This mentality worked its way through the collection and seeped into the set design; working with Moroccan artist Meriem Bennani to 'interrupt rather than transform' the interior of the Palais d’Iena.
The show saw guests seated in ergonomic work chairs placed around a weaving runway; a reminder to many of us that that the return to the office is imminent. But if we must, we might as well be wearing Miu Miu SS22. In addition to the white-lit runway, Bennani also installed binocular-shaped screens that cut through the space and projected her films. What is runway in 2021 without the addition of a multi-sensory experience?
Fittingly, the show opened with a model sporting low-slung beige trousers, a cable-knit navy sweater and layered, cropped button down – the RUSSH team uniform – and a welcome sign of what was to come. Before long, we transitioned from suit pants to mini skirts that would challenge even the most daring among us.
What we saw on the bottom translated on top; with those same frayed-edge pleats morphing into belted bandeaus taking corporate to an entirely new level. Business casual who?
The show also unveiled a new collaboration between Miu Miu and one of the hottest sneaker brands of the moment, New Balance. The two brands re-proposed the streetwear brand's 574 sneaker with raw cut edges; a consistent detail that sung throughout the SS22 collection.
While for those of us who see the Miu Miu girl for her crystal-embellished cocktail dresses and pop of colour; SS22 might initially feel like a diversion from the path. When, in actuality, the collection continues to champion the brand's fun and flirty codes through an undeniably current lens. SS22 is preppy for the modern woman – the socks are still high, the loafers shiny as ever and the detailing just the right balance of disruptive while still classic. Miu Miu's signature lavishly-embellished dresses, suits and eye-catching jewellery were hardly forgotten; arguably, making a larger splash amidst the double-shirting and exposed boxers.
In essence, Miu Miu SS22 presented the ultimate day-to-night collection, and we've never been more thrilled to head back to the office. You can watch the show in full, below.
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