A season forced to go entirely digital, London refused to show any mercy. A strong schedule that transported city dwellers and enthusiasts from all over the world to the English countrysides and daydreams, London fashion week roused us all into post-pandemic fantasies. From bold colours and knife pleats, to ruched tulles and grandeur volumes, we round up our key fashion week favourites.
Rococo! Mixed plaids and mismatched checks, big collars and tiny bags - Vivienne Westwood draws inspiration from 1743 painting, Daphnis and Chloe with clever spins on traditional tailoring, silk prints, English tartans and Baroque era inspired millinery.
At Erdem, grey was the warmest colour. Ballerina shoes, knife pleated skirts, signature Erdem florals and jewel encrusted dresses, Erdem brings a bouquet of dark drama with a collection fit for either royalty or The Royal Ballet.
Rebellious Catholic schoolgirls on a bed of winter roses. Motorcycle jackets, layered tulle skirts, rosettes, grand volumes, big sleeves, embroidered gardens - a woman ethereal but also tough and fragile. That was Simone Rocha envisioned for the fall.
Fluidity and volume were met with tasteful accentuations of colour at Roksanda. Gathered cloth, draped necklines and beautiful ties weaved throughout, we saw balloon sleeves, cinched waists and printed silks, everything oversized from suits to evening wear. A beautiful film starring English actress Vanessa Redgrave and Shakespeare's Sonet 73' accompanied the season's presentation, giving us nothing less than a faithful nod to the nostalgia of old glamour and luxury.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Cottage life in the countryside. Florals, a subtle layering of ruffles and a clever mix and matching of prints, square toe leather boots, bold sequins and colour. Contrasting knits and silk headscarves. Grey gardens gets a modern English twist.
Technically a menswear show but in our world, that means nothing. Militant but chic, luxury favourites were reinterpreted and reconstructed. Oversized, patch-worked, spliced and cut out, Ricardo Tisci gets crafty blurring the lines between outdoor and indoor lifestyle. Sharp shoulders and an experiential mix of textures and fabrics, Burberry prepares us for war.
An absolute favourite and stand out collection. Pristine construction, sophisticated tailoring and a beautiful reinterpretation of power dressing the modern woman. Bold, sharp and flattering in all its structure, we saw high necklines, houndstooth suits and a strict no nonsense approach to elegance. With virgin wool, delicate brocades, porcelain white printed silks and suggestive cut-outs revealing tasteful flashes of skin, Emilia Wickstead's collection was worthy of a standing ovation.
Molly Goddard goes full saloon. Layered and gathered tulle dresses, taffeta bows and nostalgic knitwear. Nothing short of colour and quirk with an obvious homage to Scotland in the use of traditional tartan kilts and highlander styling.
Tranquility and daydreaming reached new levels with Palmer Harding. Dreamscapes painted with Grecian style dresses, soft gathers, subtle pleats and the perfect drape. Palmer Harding went back to the neutrals, pairing delicate fabrics with heavier leathers and softly teasing us with its gentle play on volumes.
Fashion East - Maximilian
60s nightlife came to life at Maximilian with a sprinkle of mod. Blurring the lines of gender, matching two-pieces with the 60s mini skirt, hooded tops and necklines, wool balaclavas, sharp tailored leatherwear and eccentrically printed doubled denim suits. Maximilian puts a modern twist on the traditional, breathing a new life into silks, satins and wools and paying tribute to club culture and black elegance.
Fashion East - Nensi Dojaka
The Little Black Dress gets a tailspin and a risque makeover. Marrying the right amount of sheer with opaque and taking a bow to 90s supermodel silhouettes, Nenski Dojaka crafts a collection that's lo-fi, strappy, ruched and suited, reminiscent of 90s Helmut Lang and one that veers on wearable lingerie.