Twice a year in February and September, London comes alive with some of the most promising emerging designers the fashion landscape bears witness to, and breathes a shock of life back into even the most cynical of critics. From collectives like Central Saint Martens MA and Fashion East, we witness the prodigal children of fashions up and comers, alongside established house names like Raf Simons, Simone Rocha, and Molly Goddard.
For Fall 22, unlike a rather uniform NYFW season, LFW this year was slightly less cohesive in trends, save for a few common threads. Sheer sequins were offered up by 16Arlington and Nensi Dojaka, alongside a focus on leather, seen at Maximillian Davis and Raf Simons. Wearable art and drama were offered up courtesy of Harris Reed and Richard Quinn, alongside Matty Bovan, who took a punkish, DIY spin on oversized silhouettes and Americana.
The balaclava trend remained strong on UK soil, with Davis and Robyn Lynch putting their spin on things, while Central Saint Martens MA, AKA the crucible of emerging talent, was captivating and expansive with both understated tailoring and exaggerated wearable art. Either way, bright stars will inevitably emerge out of the lineup.
At Molly Goddard, her cozy, quirky brand DNA shone through with loose knitwear and long line skirts – a bit of frump never hurt, while at Simone Rocha, meringue-like ball gowns were offered up with heaping spoons of ruffles and diamanté embellishments.
For Ahluwalia's Fall 2022 runway debut, Priya Ahluwalia presented her collection titled From Nollywood to Bollywood, chock-full of skimpy party looks and luxurious velvet suiting. Drawing on inspiration from two giant film industries and referencing films like Kuch Kuch Hota Hai and Games Women Play, and the inspiration they had on the designers work today. For Supriya Lele, who showed on the final day of LFW, it was all about what the people want, and following her wildly successful formula of bringing sexy back, the designer stepped it up with silky chocolate cargo wrap skirts with bright blue ruched tops to match. Sheer mesh was wrapped around the body, twisted in places to expose skin in dresses and tops, while low rise pants nodded to the Julia Fox era of dressing.
Below, is the best of London Fashion Week Fall 2022.
Central Saint Martins MA
Ed Mendoza; Charlie Constantinou
Aaron Esh; Juntae Kim