When we first noticed Nensi Dojaka, it was for her Fall 20 collection at London Fashion Week in February of 2020, moments before COVID-19 swept the globe. The Albanian designer's first full collection was presented with the help of Fashion East, one of Britains most revered talent incubator, and featured sheer panels of fabric that were patch-worked together and held up by straps so sinewy they resembled single threads. They were stitched to the most delicate silver rings, slides and hooks, giving the illusion of lingerie layered on top of each other – its final form, a barely there little black dress. This was always the charm about the CSM graduate's work. Loosely crafted, layered, and almost microscopic in approach. Fast forward to Nensi Dojaka's Fall 2022 show, and the DNA still exists under layers of technicality and refinement.
For Fall 2022, the LVMH prize winner leant into elevation. While the collection felt quintessentially on-par with the super-star brands strong codes, Dojaka paid close attention to lifting the work from the blueprint she has already laid for herself, to a level that was perfectly glamorous and sophisticated, without leaving eroticism behind.
For some, Dojaka's earliest work could be considered more interesting with its patchwork hand feel and CSM graduate charm, but we can all appreciate industry pressure to level-up in certain aspects, and when you are London's fashion golden child, the call for refinement will always eventually come. In Dojaka's case, she has taken it in her stride, expanding the offering for Fall 22 beyond the perfect LBD and into precise tailoring, puffer jackets, knitwear, leather pencil skirts and sequin evening gowns. The latter of which, a nude sequin floor length gown, was expertly fitted to a pregnant Maggie Maurer who floated down the runway before the closing look. The LBD's were still ever-present, sheer panels fitted to dynamic underwire with pleated busts, sophistication peeking through slightly lengthened hems and the addition of sleeves.
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Perhaps it's about an increase in resourcing, perhaps it's a realisation that the post-pandemic body-exposure trend can only last so long in a cultural environment that is latching onto new trends at the speed of light; thanks to the access we have to content, new and old, in 2022. Either way, Dojaka is evolving, while simultaneously doubling down on the brands DNA. For Fall 2022, Dojaka sends the message that the original Nensi Dojaka woman is still there, only now, she is joined by who the Nensi Dojaka woman could be.
Watch the Nensi Dojaka Fall 2022 show, below.