Jones' nod to those who have come before him - the Fendi family and Karl Lagerfeld - subtly underpins the collection. Celebrating a "powerful dynasty”, Jones' references the five Fendi sisters in AW21 with the reiteration of silhouettes built into the House's DNA.
“The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” Jones notes in a press release."I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” He continues. “There’s a usefulness to the collection, explored in a chic, timeless way.”
Played out in bonded coats, utilitarian shirt jackets, silk shirting and luxurious outerwear that takes shape in camel, cashmere, upcycled mink tricot and wool fringing. A tonal ensemble to foster desire while feeling restrained and practical - the marrying of concepts that Fendi touches on so well.
“Fun isn’t always just about bright colours,” says Jones. “It can be about really luxurious self indulgence, which pleases the person wearing it more than anyone else.” As ever, there is no lack of detail in the craftsmanship of AW21, giving it a whimsical quality as much as purposeful. Motifs from Jones' debut collection can be noticed in marbled silk dresses and delicate embroidery, while homage to Lagerfeld's legacy takes shape in the Karligraphy monogram, which is laser-cut into suede and quietly present throughout.
The accessories, which were directed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, appear in the debut of the Fendi First, where the Fendi monogram is offered in the shape of a clutch in varying sizes. The Fendi Way Tote - a new silhouette for the brand sits alongside signature silhouettes like Peekaboo and Sunshine Shopper, which are reiterated in new proportions.
As we familiarise ourselves with Jones' ongoing vision for womenswear, it is apparent that one thing is clear: Kim Jones' luxury will never interfere with wearability. Made to be pared back for living or dressed up with accompanying accessories, AW21 offers a sentiment of fluidity in dressing oneself, and the Fendi dynasty lives on through Jones' reign.
See the full show, below.
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