Fashion / Trend

Trend report: the new mood at Milan Fashion Week SS 20

Ciao Milano. From nods to the 90s (hello Bottega), early oughts (JLo in a welcome cameo at Versace) and the summer of love (Fendi), Market & Beauty Director Ellen Presbury pens our trend report for Milan Fashion Week SS 20.

AGNONA

Layer upon layer. Unsure of how to wear checks? According to Agnona, it’s all the types and all at once. Worth noting here were the fabrications.

BOSS

Moving their shows from New York to Milan the brand showcased wearable separates and perfect tailoring in suedes, leathers and cottons. Pair with statement eyewear and pops of colour.

BOTTEGA VENETA

To say we love the new Bottega would be an understatement. Us and the rest of the fashion industry, that is. This was a collection where the accessories were as strong as the clothes. Jewellery, sunglasses, shoes and bags, all set to be the new ‘it’ piece. There was a nod to the 90s, a return of the covetable leather short, and denim, knit and glow-mesh to lust after.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Mr. Armani knows how to cut a dress well. A collection comprised of his signature colour palette with a few pops of electric blue, we’ll be forever reaching for his evening wear.

ETRO

Business bohemian. Because who said you have to choose? Mix your floral dress with your suits and your shirting with the jewellery collected over the years from across the world. The finale of the runway made a strong case for loose fit, low riding pants and borrowing from your dad’s wardrobe.

FENDI

If you loved the 60s and 70s then Fendi’s spring summer runway is for you – a collection that felt both wearable and made for the screen. The first collection designed without Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini Fendi spoke of the freedom of summer, liberation and ease.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

This collection used colour in a way that felt neutral. Greens, blue, pinks and orange all appeared as natural tonal progressions instead of bold seasonal wardrobe injections. Take note of the footwear this season, and the pieces destined to become instant classics.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Tangerine dream. Making a case for orange and co-ordinating tie-dye outfits. There was a big nod to the 70s this season – suede mini skirts and flared pants (take note of the single earring throughout the collection).

GUCCI

It’s been a while since I’ve like a Gucci show so much. In the eyes of Alessandro Michele, this is minimalism. That is, while also staying firmly planted inside the aesthetic Michele has reimagined the brand (and industry) to be. It was somewhat sexy for a designer known best for his grandma-chic, vintage quirk designs. Lace slip dresses, nipple-grazing scoop necks and leather gloves reigned.

JIL SANDER

It’s not the first time they’ve made us a fall in love with a floor length dress. It’s that touch of craftsmanship that elevates the Jil Sander pieces from simply being labelled as minimalist. The micro-bag trend also continues here.

MARNI

The time has passed for greenwashing. When people revolt the world over real change is needed, and expected, even more so. The materials for both the set design and the collection were recycled / up-cycled/ repurposed and organic. It was big colours and even bigger prints (created in-house) for Marni’s Spring Summer collection. The painted leathers pieces felt like the right sort of one-of-a-kind, and Francesco Risso’s barefoot bow at the end will be remembered.

MAX MARA

Short suits. We know and love them well. Pair with knee-high socks and matching trench.

MISSONI

Angela Missoni spoke of drawing inspiration from Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg. Same. The opening look perfected the androgynous, / borrowed from your partner / nonchalant attitude the pair so perfectly represented. From there it was pieces to mix and match. Worried about clashing prints? Don’t be. Tie multiple jumpers around your waist and string all your scarfs together as one. Summer and maximalism just went hand in hand.

N.21

A classic collection with just enough elements of deconstruction. Take the undone, one-shouldered tank tops, extra-long, false sleeves and buttons made to mismatch.

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI

It’s the 80s, baby. Big rounded shoulders, denim on denim and disco-fever leather – it’s time to raid your mum’s wardrobe. There was a big portion of the collection that felt very Chanel (tweed denim, tweed stripes) but for us it was the all-white power suit and denim tuxedo (with cowboy boots) that stole the show.

PRADA

For Muccia Prada a woman’s strengths lie in her contradictions, and what better way to show them than in clothing; cheesecloth dresses adorned with jewels, basket weave bags paired with business blazers, classic brown coats and pink snakeskin hats. For us it was those semi-sheer pieces scattered throughout the show that kept us coming back.

SPORTMAX

Just a touch. It was the trimmings of leather against billowing dresses, the collars of blouses, cuffs, belts and waist lines. A different kind of nautical.

TOD’S

Unexpected splashes of colour and expertly crafted pieces designed to build a wardrobe that lasts.

VERSACE

You all saw the runway – it was all unavoidable on Instagram. Versace played to its late 90s, early 00s strengths and sent little black dresses and outfits that scream because the night down the runway. Notable mentions – the ‘Gianni Versace’ slogan jumpers and mini glow-mesh bags.