Fashion / Trend

Trend report: the SS 20 Paris Fashion Week dream

A closing week like no other. Untimely rain and traffic as far as the eye could see didn’t stop designers presenting their dreamy Spring Summer 20 collections. Fashion Editor Natalie Petrevski rounds up the best of this season’s Paris Fashion Week.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Designed and made to perfection. Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen SS 20 showcase celebrated local talent and incredible craftsmanship. Special mentions go to the puffed sleeves, delicate lace, leather dresses, architectural ruffles and deconstructed blazers.

BALENCIAGA

The belle of the Balenciaga ball. A diverse casting of faces that included lawyers, engineers, gallerists and top models walked a futuristic blue spiral runway for Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga SS 20 show. From ultra-wide 80s power shoulders to metallic ballroom dresses with oversized exaggerated bows and bouncy skirts. We want it all.

CELINE

The 70s was a recurring theme this season, and as such Hedi Slimane’s Celine was an array of denim midi skirts and bootcut jeans, slim tailored blazers, hippie suede jackets, knee-high boots, embroidered dresses and ruffled blouses.

CHANEL

A new era. We scaled Parisian rooftops in the Grand Palais with ultra French girls for Virginie Viard’s first ready-to-wear Chanel collection since the passing of Karl Lagerfeld. Signature house tweed, mini skirts and coats, playsuits, ruffles and metallic shorts set the mood.

CHLOÉ

Chloé’s SS 20 runway proved that bliss is best found in the simple things. Layering silk boxers under long shorts, soft feminine dresses over tailored trousers, leather combat boots paired with a knit dress or exposing your bra just so.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Nature, baby. Maria Grazia Chiuri created an outdoor oasis for SS 20. Inspired by the real ‘Miss Dior’ – Christian’s sister Catherine – the collection stayed true to Chiuri’s whimsical silhouettes. Featuring sheer dresses, signature embroidery and appliqué, tulle, rope sandals and a new inclusion of raffia. Sunday gardening just got better.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

An incredible surprise and extremely welcome collaboration between Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix. It was all feathered head pieces, zebra prints, bubble sleeves, brocade, florals, leopard print, polka dots and so much more. A mash of all extremes yet the signatures of Dries and Lacroix all synergised so wonderfully together.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Flower power. Floral print dresses matched with real life petal beauty looks. Soft and sweet.

GIVENCHY

Inspired by her time living in New York in the 90s, it was all well-tailored minimalism for Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy SS 20 offering. No fuss fashion.

HERMÈS

Strong and sleek. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski honoured the house’s leather code and heritage for Hermès SS 20. The new workwear.

ISABEL MARANT

French bohemian festival boys and girls. It was a mixture of baggy boyfriend jeans and ultra short denim cut-offs, 80s style jumpsuits, cinched waists, slouchy knee-high boots and spaghetti-strap wrap sandals. Touches of suede, print, beading and lace to complete.

LEMAIRE

Clothing for the everyday. Clothing you want to wear. Refined, classic and purposeful; can Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran be in charge of our wardrobes all the time?

LOEWE

Ethereal, poetic, and aristocratic. Jonathan Anderson took inspirations from history, and in true J.W.A form championed the incredible craftsmanship from the 16th and 17th centuries. From lace, embroidery and house leather, this was a show that was light, modern and truly incredible.

LOUIS VUITTION

Nicolas Ghesquière celebrated French history for Louis Vuitton’s SS 20 show. Sharp vests, pinstripe trousers, wide collars, bright jacquard prints, mini dresses, leather skirts, puff sleeves and quirky VHS inspired bags.

MAISON MARGIELA

It was a Maison Margiela military for Spring Summer 20. The uniform ranged from nurses to navy seals with pinstripe jackets, patent knee-high boots, belted waists, coloured capes and deconstructed layers.

MIU MIU

Leave it to Miuccia Prada to create Italian glamour in Paris, with a lesson in up-cycling your grandma’s closet. DIY fusions of materials, trinket-style embellishments, artful layering, deconstructed sweaters and patent leather with painted florals.

MUGLER

A lesson in undressing. It was vintage inspirations from Thierry Mugler’s iconic work from the 80s and 90s. Casey Cadwallader presented second skin pieces, corsetry, sheer stockings and the black spaghetti strap bra of our dreams.

PACO RABANNE

A 70s psychedelic rock trip. Signature chain mail dresses and skirts, floral prints, rainbow stripes and polka dots, silver metallic suits, knee-high bright coloured socks, slim tailoring, wide collars and artful styling.

SAINT LAURENT

A softer edge for Anthony Vacarrello’s Saint Laurent SS 20. Inspired by the hippie-chic era of the original Yves Saint Laurent, models donned paisley embroidered dresses, peasant blouses and headscarves. The YSL DNA was still present, however, with injections of sheer tops, short shorts, playsuits and sequins galore. Notable mention to Naomi Campbell closing the show in a reimagined black sequin Le Smoking suit.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Her most sustainable collection so far, with over 75 per cent of materials used being eco-friendly. Stella McCartney is no doubt the fashion industry’s eco-climate warrior, and her SS 20 show was a glimmer of hope in these dark times we are currently facing.

VALENTINO

Simply beautiful. Pierpaolo Piccioli continues to bring dreams to life with his SS 20 collection. Couture worthy gowns, bright splashes of welcome colour, exaggerated puff sleeves and all white ensembles. These masterpieces have a foreseeable future on the red carpet this awards season.