Fashion / Fashion News

Show notes and highlights from Milan Fashion Week SS26

Show notes and highlights from Milan Fashion Week SS26

After stops in New York and London, fashion month has arrived in Milan — a city renowned for its luxury craftsmanship and rich heritage. Running from September 24 to 30, the Spring Summer 2026 shows in Milan have already delivered exactly that, with a lineup that feels considered, and grounded in the kind of fashion people actually want to wear.

This season, the spotlight will shine on several major houses as they continue to evolve under new creative direction. Among them, Jil Sander's new creative director Simone Bellotti has already made his debut. And still to come, Dario Vitale will make his mark at Versace, Louis Trotter at Bottega, and Demna at Gucci (which came in the form of a star-studded fashion film).

Not everything is changing. We can expect the familiar vigour of Houses like Prada and Fendi, as well as more playful, youthful energy from newer names like Act N°1, Andreadamo and Cormio.

Whether you’ve been watching from the front row or catching up  between shows, we’ve pulled together the highlights that stood out — the collections, moments and trends that defined Milan Fashion Week SS26. Scroll on for the RUSSH edit.

 

Giorgio Armani

The late Armani's last collection was unveiled in a heartfelt show at the Pinacoteca di Brera, lit by hundreds of paper lanterns. and featured a live performance by pianist and composer Ludovico Einaudi. The collection marked 50 years of the brand, and the last that Mr. Armani worked on himself. The collection moved through neutrals to shimmering jewel tones, featuring crystal-emblazoned shawls, blazers and dresses in midnight hues. Monochromatic outfits used texture to add interest – from patched-together leather squares, woven and tassled belts, and beaded bags hung from necks and carried in arms.

 

Jimmy Choo

The Jimmy Choo Spring 26 Women’s Collection, Future Feminine, was presented at Milan Fashion Week in a palazzo’s secret garden, where oversized floral installations created a surreal backdrop for the designs. The collection showcased sculptural lace treatments on pumps and bags, suede reworked with trompe l’oeil denim effects, reissued BIKER boots in toffee suede and black leather, and new accessories like the BAR FILO bag, all emphasising craftsmanship, experimentation, and unexpected reinterpretations of house codes.

 

Sportmax

Sportmax Spring Summer 26 was presented at the historic Frigoriferi Milanesi, a former icehouse turned restoration space, setting the tone for a collection focused on reflection and reinvention. The collection was a meditation on perspective and movement, explored through sheer organza layers, sculptural tailoring, and fluid silhouettes. Soft doublé wool and glove leather grounded lightweight pieces, while hand-painted floral prints and moulded leather blooms brought a playful, tactile edge. Designed for women in motion, the collection balanced structure with ease, opacity with transparency — finished with S-charm bags and kitten-heel mules made for purposeful steps.

 

Moschino

Moschino's “Niente” show was guided by the ethos of “reuse, recycle, reimagine" this season – combining technical raffia knits, bouffant skirts and lace-up jelly shoes. The House's signature trompe-l’œil effects came into play with cardboard-look leather handbags and drawn-on tuxedos. Accessories were notably camp – simply stacks of newspapers, pots and bags of apples carried as bags.

 

Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons SS26 collection for Prada was a "response to the overload of contemporary culture" – and did so in true Frankenstein fashion: structured jackets, spliced-up skirts, and a palette of oranges, pale pinks and royal purples. FROW guests of course included Enhypen, Emma Chamberlain, Peggy Gou and Sadie Sink.

 

Max Mara

Ian Griffiths channelled the 18th-century court figure, Madame de Pompadour for his SS26 collection at Max Mara, a renowned patron and proponent of Rococo style. The collection was a mix of frothy Rococo-inspired pieces with organza petals and frilled garlands, sleek 1980s-style tailoring, cropped knits and jackets highlighting taut midriffs, as well as skimpy, modern silhouettes with bare shoulders, backs, and legs.

 

Emporio Armani

The Emporio Armani SS26 show was a poignant tribute to the late Giorgio’s timeless legacy, blending his signature louche tailoring with an ease that put women’s comfort and practicality first. With soft-focus shades, fluid silhouettes, and a subtle elegance, it served as both a farewell and a reminder of his enduring influence on fashion.

 

Knwls

The London brand headed overseas for its MFW debut, spearheaded by a brand-new collab with Nike. Logo-emblazoned technical gear, corseted jackets and harnesses were paired with cap-sleeved pink dresses, “weatherproof plaid” garments, constructed trenches and a new take on the Air Max Muse. The brand’s It-girl Razr bag was reimagined in nylon and rubber – said to be “modelled on Nike’s very first waffle outsole.”

 

Onitsuka Tiger

The Onitsuka Tiger SS26 runway featured pleated skirts, striped tops, trench coats, cargo-pocket dresses, and stirrup pants paired with slouchy boots. Accessories like bug-eye sunglasses, charm-strung bags, tiger necklaces, and pearl jewellery from Mikimoto reinforced the 'Urban Fantasy' theme alongside moto sets, satin trainers, and studded Tiger Tote bags.

 

Missoni

Missoni’s Spring Summer 2026 show, led by Alberto Caliri, celebrated spontaneity with compact silhouettes, broad-shouldered sweaters, tapered blazers, open-back mini t-shirts, and twinsets reimagined as vests with sundresses. The show was staged in a shared-space setting that echoed its theme of effortless transitions "from shore to city and back again".

 

Fendi

At Fendi Spring Summer 26, Silvia Venturini Fendi turned her attention to proportion and play — drawing on memories of childhood dressing to inform a collection brimming with whimsy and wonder. Held at the house’s Milan headquarters, the show set the tone with a bright, architectural set that echoed the shapes and scale of toys. The clothes followed suit: jackets and skirts that could be adjusted with pull cords and ties, pieces that shifted shape as they moved. Colour came in soft, stacked tones — blues, browns, primrose yellow — while accessories added texture: beaded bags, woven mesh, and trainers that softened the silhouettes. Subtle, clever and deeply wearable — Fendi made growing into your clothes feel like a luxury in itself.

 

Gucci

At Gucci, a new era is beginning. Demna’s debut for the House — titled La Famiglia — wasn’t a runway show, but a conceptual introduction, offering a first glimpse into his vision for the brand. Presented as a family of exaggerated, character-driven archetypes (each one photographed by Catherine Opie), the collection leaned into contradiction: minimal and excessive, nostalgic and new. Classic Gucci signatures — the Bamboo bag, the Horsebit loafer, the GG monogram — were reimagined with surreal proportions, while body-conscious silhouettes, feathered coats, and second-skin hosiery blurred the lines between daywear and evening.

 

Jil Sander

Simone Bellotti made a triumphant debut at Jil Sander for Spring Summer 26. Opening with ‘90s icon Guinevere Van Seenus in a shrunken navy knit and sculpted white pencil skirt, the collection paid homage to the house’s roots, while still feeling poised for now.  Clean lines remained, but Bellotti added a subtle sensuality: sheer slips, peekaboo cut-outs, and gauzy dresses. Belloti's era at Jil Sander, is shaping up to be precise, considered, and full of feeling.

 

 

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