For the first time, Giorgio Armani wasn’t physically present to take the final bow at Emporio Armani's Spring Summer 26 runway show — but his influence was everywhere. From the flowing tailoring to the subtle palette, the collection felt both like a tribute to the designer's incredible legacy, and a continuation of his vision.

The show opened with milky whites, pearl greys, soft beiges and a tinge of metallic silver. Silhouettes were fluid, from gently deconstructed jackets, to wide-leg trousers and layered skirts that moved like air as models' walked. Translucent shirts floated over textured knits, revealing and obscuring in equal measure.

As the show progressed, the palette deepened into hues of midnight blue, soft lilac, silvered grey. As always, evening looks emerged with breathtaking elegance, from strapless gowns cinched carefully at the waist with layered black bows, to sheer mini dresses delicately appliquéd, and floor-skimming sequinned skirts that recalled the glamour of the roaring 20s.

There was a sense of movement throughout — not just in the physical garments, but in the way the collection nodded to the future while holding onto the past. Moroccan influences appeared in soft patterning and woven textures, while those tenets of classic Armani tailoring gave the collection its grounded core.

Accessories felt poised for a holiday. Oversized woven bags — structured, but soft — swung from the models' hands, and tiny iterations – big enough to hold maybe only a pair of AirPods – hung like necklaces around their necks. At the other end of the spectrum, transparent clutches in shades of midnight blue, turquoise and fuchsia punctuated the evening wear looks.  Flat, strappy sandals, pointed-toe brogues, and slip-on styles took the place of heels, grounding even the most ethereal dresses, and suggesting that these pieces were made not just to be admired, but lived in.

This was a show shaped by Mr Armani's absence, yes. But the spirit of his work — democratic, intuitive, luxurious without pretension — ran through every piece.