On Saturday evening, Emporio Armani showed its Fall Winter 24 menswear presentation, kicking off at Milan Fashion Week to the tune of Loredana Berte’s Il Mare D’inverno (Winter Sea). It was an apt soundtrack to be chosen from the Italian singer, as the Milanese fashion House's latest collection seemed to centre on ideas of nautical regalia, piecing together a kind of maritime mood board that reflected Mr. Armani’s own "love for the sea", and even featured a lighthouse on the runway (from which Mr. Armani climbed down for a final bow at the conclusion of the show).
The House's show notes painted a scenic picture: "The cold and impetuous winter sea. An ocean that connects continents. The ships cutting through it from ports and shipyards, and the characters that populate them: sailors, cabin boys, engineers, and officers." Opening the show, navy dixie caps and sailor's neckties were paired with double-breasted coats and scrunched-down leather boots and gloves. Aviator sunglasses and Naval-inspired knits, berets and knot-tied belts added detail to the world-building.
In the mid-section of the show, the palette shifted to an array of browns and beiges – more Artful Dodger than Master and Commander. Billowing pants were paired with biker boots and leather-tie belts; flat caps and knee-grazing trousers with slouchy duster coats and oversized leather bags. Tailoring and silhouette remained at the fore, a noticeable absence of pattern in exchange for detailed appliques and structured accessories.
The final leg of the journey saw Emporio Armani hit the slopes, taking a turn into ski and apres-ski wear. Models akin to Michelin Men donned white puffer jackets and down parkas, knitwear, tailored dresses and skirts in luxuriously quilted shades of ivory. Accessories were kept straightforward – skis, snowboards, helmets and goggles – as you would expect. As Aramani's own show notes concluded: "Adventure, in any setting, is a pivotal theme for Emporio Armani, along with absolute open mindedness."
See the full collection and watch the show on Emporio Armani's website.
