I did not attend Oxford or Cambridge, Harvard or Yale. But I have read enough campus novels to know that Hedi Slimane cuts to the bone of collegiate style in his spring summer 2024 women's collection for Celine.
In lieu of a runway presentation, Slimane directed and filmed the collection amidst the bookshelves and study desks at the Labrouste Reading Room of the French National Library. The clothes are evocative of student living and are designed for the various stomping grounds in this stage of life – from study halls to dorm rooms to late night clubs. Sunglasses are essential, and the Celine Triomphe embossed headphones made in collaboration with audio brand Master & Dynamic keep unnecessary small talk at bay. Ties maintain a scholarly air, while low rise jeans and borrowed boxer shorts dragged the mood back to the age of its early adult creators. Big coats in grey fleece and leopard shearling provide comfort between classes, and take on an extra shade of glamour at night, only to repeat the cycle the next day. Bags could hardly fit your keys, phone and wallet, let alone any textbooks. Polo shirts and tartan skirts drive the feeling home. While string chokers pay homage to the 90s, when Slimane first began his design career. There's even shearling-lined boots, redolent of Ugg Boots – a staple for dorm room comfort and the tardiest of us all.
Who is involved?
While Hedi Slimane kept close control of the styling and creative direction, he enlisted Aaron De Mey and Esther Langham for hair and makeup. The collection was set to the soundtrack of Too Much Love by LCD Soundsystem and although there weren't any celebrities walking, the video was spliced with footage of Esther McGregor and Stella Rose Gahan.
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