Upon the 20th anniversary of the Palais de Tokyo and the 20th anniversary of Hedi Slimane’s inaugural show at the same venue, Celine Homme Summer 23 took over the largest centre for contemporary creation in a show of bare-chested models, imbued with an androgynous rock spirit. Closing the week of events, the Dysfunctional Bauhaus show marked the return of the House to Paris Fashion Week menswear shows.
The sparse, concrete halls of the Palais de Tokyo contrasted with the dramatic backdrop settings Slimane chose during live-streamed pandemic presentations; from Renaissance castles to gilded French buildings. The venue, a living place of today’s artists and a platform for global emerging talent, embodies Slimane’s Celine and the designer himself, having always held a fascination for the art-deco monumental architecture it houses.
Unzipped shirts, sequin-embellished blouses and skin-hugging trousers featured throughout the Celine homme Summer 23 show, alongside 1970s suiting and denim aplenty. An embellished duster coat in black made for a statement moment on the runway, paired contrastingly with muted black trousers and a crisp white shirt.
Slimane staples including refined suiting, architectural leather constructing and an inherent edge peppered throughout looks walked, with boots the footwear pairing of choice ranging from chunky smooth-leather combat boots to the crocodile, pointed toe variety and interspersed in monochromatic and coloured looks.
The aforementioned denim reared its head on multiple occasions through the inclusion of the staple denim jean with blazers and chelsea boots, shades of versatility shining through on a runway drenched in the spirit of rock’s favourite sons of androgyny, like David Bowie and Mick Jagger. A red leather boilersuit is followed by a grey suit paired with a dusty pink shirt, conveying the duality of the collection.