"It was important for me to explore what it means to belong, how our roots influence our identity and how the power of community and togetherness is what truly brings meaning to the world." For Riccardo Tisci, this sentiment has always been integral to his practice as a designer at Burberry, and for the brand's Fall Winter 2022 show in London at Central Hall Westminster, it has never felt more apt.
An element of chaos was present at the show – even as onlookers from Sydney – offering a tonally diverse approach to all that is happening in the world right now. Instead of a solemn, still audience, Tisci bunched everyone up together. No front row or fashion hierarchy, just groups of guests standing, crowded into the space, around large circular dinner tables set with crystal glasses and china, ready to be stepped onto by his cast of models, celebrities, and friends of the House.
Emerging down from the wooden staircase to an orchestral soundtrack accompanied by a 100-person choir, Tisci showed a menswear and womenswear collection for Burberry Fall 2022, blurring the lines of tradition. First, out came the menswear. Traditional outerwear codes like the signature trench, plus quilted jackets and corduroy collars on waxed coats formed the bones of the collection, fused with more modern silhouettes, like the returning baseball cap – this season, secured to the head with bejewelled and plaid padded hairbands.
For womenswear, the same approach to outerwear was taken to offer tradition infused with modern playfulness. The leather stretch black bodysuits that have become a new staple for the house, were worn underneath waxed cotton coats and Harrington jackets, while nods to the British countryside were offered with deep, "English" tones, like rich pine green, dark brown, and checks.
For everning wear, which always feels like the most exciting part of Tisci's collections, gave way to structured silhouettes nodding to British aristocracy. Tuxedo jackets were presented alongside bedazzled dinner shirts. The signature Burberry trench is reimagined as a floor length strapless evening gown, while sweeping ballgowns in vibrant yellow and black organza demand our full attention as they step onto the neatly-set dinner tables – a note of rebellion in itself.
A tribute to Britishness, and a tribute to change. As the past is celebrated in all of its traditionalism, Tisci makes room for the togetherness of today and the hope served up with it.
Watch the Burberry Fall Winter 2022 show, below.