Fashion / Trend

Trend report: the Milan mood for Autumn Winter 2020

A week with no shortage of drama. From a medical outbreak health scare to major collaboration announcements, Fashion Editor Natalie Petrevski recaps Milan Fashion Week AW 20.

Wear on repeat.

AGNONA
Timeless warming winter staples. Agnona’s AW 20 collection was inspired by iconic couple Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr. Tasteful, sleek, with an array of looks to piece apart and wear on repeat.

ALBERTA FERRETTI
Strong, bold and confident women for Alberta Ferretti Autumn Winter 20. Eighties silhouettes saw wide shoulders, belted jumpsuits, masculine tailoring and high-rise pants. Jet black leathers, double washed denim, metallic silver shine, ruffle dresses, fringing, sparkle, statement earrings and bursts of bright colour were also on display. Achingly wearable.

BOSS
Sleek tailoring, rich fabrications, purposeful layering with splashes of beige, lilac, navy and burnt orange. We all want to be the BOSS.

 Refreshing and romantic.

BOTTEGA VENETA
Dreamy BV continues to draw in the crowds with Daniel Lee’s third instalment for AW 20. Languid, slouchy silhouettes that flowed with ease and comfort, luxurious fabrications, smatterings of fringing, and a rich palette of chocolate brown, kiwi green and scarlet. Optimum modernity and confidence.

DOLCE & GABBANA
A predominantly monochrome palette that saw an abundance of cosy artistic knitwear, bejewelling, lace and refined tailoring. A celebration of the craftsmanship and artisans that create these beautiful experiences.

EMILIO PUCCI
A collaboration between the house of Emilio Pucci and Christelle Kocher (of Koché) for AW 20 – the best of both worlds fusing bold patterns and street sportswear. The runway saw fishnet swirl tights, party shirts, baggy hoodies, boxer shorts, lace fusions, bright colour and graphic prints.

Dial up the drama.

EMPORIO ARMANI
A sea of black, blue and green for Emporio Armani AW 20, shaping velvet suiting, lace trim shorts, cropped knit cardigans, caped mini dresses and more.

ETRO
Bohemian dresses, blanket ponchos. fringed detail, embroidery, statement belts, tartan-checks, felt hats, denim, velvet, paisley prints and gold metallic. Etro had it all for Autumn Winter 20.

FENDI
From the boudoir to the boardroom. Notes on soft power, femininity and sexual liberation. Models donned voluminous sleeves, strong leathers, sheer lace, sensual satins and opera gloves down the pink runway for Sylvia Fendi’s AW 20 show.

Backstage with Gucci.

GUCCI
It started with a live show invitation sent via WhatsApp, direct from Alessandro Michele himself – a modern move away from the wasteful hard copy invitations of years past. Guests were then treated to a 360-degree view of all the behind-the-scenes action for Gucci’s AW 20 show. A true celebration of models, dressers, hair stylists and makeup artists working their magic.

JIL SANDER
It was a case of musical chairs for Jil Sander AW 20, as Lucie and Luke Meier presented dreamy, elegant pieces for the timeless woman. Think plush knitwear, cosy blanket dresses, intricate pleating, buttery leathers, neutral tones and luxurious fabrications.

MARNI
We’re all mad here. A Francesco Risso version of Alice in Wonderland for Marni’s AW 20 offering. DIY-style garments in a patchwork of materials and textures, complete with gold and silver glitter makeup and hair.

All aboard.

MAX MARA
A true sea voyage for Max Mara AW 20. Waists were cinched with rope belts and sleeves were ruffled pirate-style, with nautical stripes, warming ponchos and padded puffer jackets also out to play.

MISSONI
Clash of the Missoni prints. Autumn Winter 20 saw kimono-style coats, belted cardigans, ribbed knit sweaters, slinky dresses, tube skirts and soft tights.

MONCLER GENIUS
One house different voices. The third instalment for Moncler Genius 2020 which brings to life 12 different designers, concepts, installations and visions. Stand-out collections included the newest addition of Moncler 1 J.W.Anderson along with Moncler 8 Richard Quinn and Moncler 4 Simone Rocha.

Let them eat cake.

MOSCHINO
French Revolution and Marie Antoinette were obvious inspirations for Jeremy Scott’s AW 20 show – 1780, but make it Moschino. The playful runway saw mini skirts, ultra-wide hips, brocade denim, thigh-high lace boots, biker leather, bright colour, bouncy silhouettes and lots of flare.

MSGM
Horror movie right there on my TV. Massimo Giorgetti collaborated for the second time with director and master of horror, Dario Argento, for MSGM’s AW 20 collection. Models donned collaged film poster prints, splashes of colour, sequin sparkle, ruffle shirting, puff sleeves, baby doll dresses, pleated skirts and tweed jackets.

No.21
In the spirit of his milestone 10th birthday for the brand, Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No.21 runway saw chunky chain detailing, liquid sequin dresses, suit-style shirting, leather two-pieces, crystal floral embroidery and sensual lace detailing for AW 20.

Surreal glamour.

PRADA
Miuccia Prada drew inspiration from the innate strength of women for Prada’s AW 20 show. Challenging traditional codes of femininity, the collection was shaped by combinations of layered fringing, boxy blazers, luxe sportswear, ribbed coloured tights, sensual sheers, bib-front shirting and hints of sparkle. We can’t wait to see what next season brings alongside recently announced co-creative director Raf Simons.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Luxury from head to toe. Paul Andrew’s AW 20 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo saw languid metallic chains, sumptuous leathers, strong suiting, paisley prints, chunky knitwear, masculine tailoring and footwear up-cycled from dead stock materials.

SPORTMAX
An extremely wearable show for Sportmax AW 20, showing luxurious outerwear in the way of coats, jackets and blazers featuring exaggerated shoulders, belted waists and contrast buttons. Thigh-high boots, miniskirts, subtle layering and cosy knitwear also came into play.

The new Tod’s.

TOD’S
The first collection under new creative director Walter Chiapponi saw relaxed tailoring with a masculine edge. Considered, simple and sophisticated – we like the new Tod’s already.

VERSACE
There was sadly no J.Lo this season, however it was the first runway to combine both men’s and women’s collections for Versace AW 20. From sleek black suiting to rugby-inspired sportswear and Donatella’s signature party dresses: the shortest of hemlines meet mountains of sparkle. Versace Versace Versace.