Le Labo's Santal 33 is a fragrance phenomenon that should be studied. I would argue that it's just as cult as major players like Miss Dior or Coco Mademoiselle. Maybe it's not as storied, but it's just as iconic.

The fragrance, created by New York based perfume house Le Labo, actually started as a candle: Santal 26. Legendary NYC Hotelier Ian Schrager liked it, and so placed it into The Gramercy Park Hotel. It was popular with guests – this was the early 2000s where the fragrance category was overrun with feminine florals and crisp colognes (CK One and Issey Miyake L'eau d'Issey had launched just five years prior). Smoke, wood and witchy notes like incense were essentially unheard of. The demand was palpable and so Le Labo reimagined it as the Santal 33 we know and love today. It was an instant success and basically became the scent of New York in the early 2000s. It changed industry perceptions on gender neutrality, while popularising the niche perfume category. It also established Le Labo as a household name in fragrance.

15 years on, Santal 33 is still a classic. Personally, I love the composition: there's sandalwood, cedarwood and cardamom. It has a grittiness to it, but it's overwhelmingly warm thanks to an overdose of musk. It's smoky but balanced – a perfect synergy of masculine and feminine energy that's understated but instantly recognisable.

But it is popular – in a room of people, it's almost guaranteed one of them is wearing Santal. So if you love the vibe but want a perfume that's slightly more unique, I've curated the perfect list. Some are very similar, while others exist in the same world but in a different way. All carry the same nonchalant energy.

The best Santal 33 dupes, below.

Diptyque Tam Dao

This is creamy, smooth and rich in woody notes like sandalwood and cedar. There's also ginger and coriander for a spicy, slightly meditative edge. 

Maison Louis Marie No.04 Bois de Balincourt

Widely known as one of the closest Santal 33 dupes (while still remaining a unique fragrance in its own right), this perfume smells delicious and intoxicating without any heaviness. It's cosy, spicy and earthy with notes of cinnamon, vetiver, nutmeg and sandalwood. It also comes as a scented oil, if you prefer that format.

Byredo Super Cedar

If you love Santal but want something cleaner and more precise, Byredo Super Cedar is one to try. It's recognisable as a whole but the notes are obscure (there's rose, vetiver and musk). If Santal 33 is an American wood cabin, Super Cedar is a Scandinavian one.

Comme des Garçons Wonderwood

Wonderwood is a bolder, rougher take on wood when compared to Santal 33. It's super dry and unlike those scents that try to imitate nature, the synthetic-ness of this is part of the appeal. You're guaranteed to smell inherently unique.

Tom Ford Santal Blush

If you want the creamy spice of Santal 33 tempered with powdery florals, Santal Blush is the one. Think of it as a more feminine counterpart with the same ability to solicit compliments.

La Labo Thé Noir 29

Another cult Le Labo scent but slightly lesser known, Thé Noir is also completely unisex with juxtaposing notes of black tea, fig, cedar and musk. My neighbour wears it, and I can always smell him in the hallway.

Matiere Premiere Santal Astral

If Santal had a creamy, gourmand base it would be Santal Astral. With soft almond milk, iris and tonka, it's delicious and cosy – think of it like cashmere in fragrance form.

Maison Crivelli Papyrus Moléculaire

This has the depth and sophistication of Santal, but instead of wood and smoke, it paints an olfactive picture of leather-bound journals and cigarettes. Think of it as slightly more grown up alternative.

Goldfield & Banks White Sandalwood

Luminous but complex, this fragrance is inspired by the Kimberleys in Western Australia. It marries creamy white Australian sandalwood with Turkish rose, pepper and saffron (one of the key raw materials in Baccarat Rouge) for a fragrance that's bold but wonderfully bright.

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Serge Lutens is a cult brand in the world of fragrance (it's a known favourite of the Olsen twins, for starters). Santal Majuscule is regarded as quietly luxurious with precious raw materials like sandalwood, damask rose and cacao. The projection is impressive – it wears on the skin for hours – yet it strikes the perfect balance of quiet warmth and recognisability.

Vilhelm Smoke Show

Slightly less boisterous than Santal, Smoke Show is woody and sophisticated with an air of lightness – perfect for minimalists or those who prefer a perfume that's only perceptible to those in close proximity.

Aesop Eidesis

Punchy and peppery from the start, Eidesis dries down to a soft, creamy, woody base that's alluring without feeling obvious. It's actually inspired by the story of Narcissus, who drowned upon gazing intently into a pool of water at his own reflection. Wear with caution.

Images: @maisonlouisemarie, @byredo