Perfumed hills, coastal light, and centuries-old villages — the South of France has long captivated artists and writers. But beyond the expected postcard-like imagery, the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region offers a quieter, deeper kind of beauty — one shaped by its connection to craft, scent, and the pleasures of everyday rituals.
It was here that Shenol Kizek, co-founder of design brand Saardé, studied perfumery in Grasse, the world’s fragrance capital. During this time, the Kizek family based themselves between two homes: one set within the forest near Bar-sur-Loup, and the other just outside the medieval centre of Tourrettes-sur-Loup. These villages served as ideal bases for exploring the region’s blend of history, nature and cultural richness — and ultimately inspired Kizek,’s first perfume.
Through the words and eyes of Kizek, we share a curated view of what to see, taste and experience in this idyllic part of France. A region where the scent of wild herbs mingles with sea breeze, and every street tells a story.
Where to stay
Hiring a private home is a great way to experience this region — particularly if you're travelling as a family or doing a longer stay. There’s no shortage of charming stone cottages and villas available for rent, many with gardens, pools, and kitchens – perfect for experimenting with seasonal Provençal produce and ‘living like a local’.
Bar-sur-Loup is ideal for those looking for privacy and nature, while Tourrettes-sur-Loup offers a more immersive village experience, still conveniently close to Grasse.
What to do
Tourrettes-sur-Loup
An artisan village perched on a cliffside, Tourrettes-sur-Loup is known for its cobblestone laneways and blend of medieval and Romanesque architecture. The town’s pedestrian-only centre is home to a number of small ateliers and galleries. Here you can find the small studio of ceramicist Damien Vigroux. We particularly love the delicate white cups and dishes detailed with fine painterly blue lines — objects that embrace simplicity and imperfection in equal measure.
Grasse
A pilgrimage site for perfumers, Grasse is home to major fragrance houses and even CHANEL BEAUTY’s invitation-only flower fields. The Musée International de la Parfumerie is a haven for perfume lovers, not only for its exhibits but also for its expansive gardens, where perfume plants such as jasmine and rose are cultivated for scent production.
Gourdon
It's a medieval village set high above the valley. Gourdon offers panoramic views, charming stone buildings, and a peaceful atmosphere — perfect for a long lunch and an afternoon stroll.
Antibes
A short coastal drive reveals Antibes, a town that blends old-world charm with Riviera glamour. Cobbled streets lead to Château Grimaldi, which now houses the Musée Picasso, where the artist lived and worked for a period in 1946. The local market and nearby shoreline complete the perfect day trip.
Where to eat
Spelt, Tourrettes-sur-Loup
Tucked away in the heart of the village, Spelt is an understated restaurant with a growing reputation. The risotto with lobster is a standout, while desserts by pastry chef Marion Luque-Bouvier — including the lemon kalamansi tart and warm chocolate mousse — are not to be missed.
Clovis, Tourrettes-sur-Loup
An elevated, locally-loved restaurant offering refined French cuisine in a relaxed and intimate setting.
Le Saint-Martin, Vence
Located within the grand Château Saint-Martin, this fine dining destination pairs exceptional food with sweeping views over the Mediterranean hills. The desserts are a particular highlight.
Hôtel de Particulier des Jasmins, Bar-sur-Loup
Set within a relaxed garden setting, this charming local spot serves simple, seasonal fare. A standout dish? Zucchini flower fritters, served crisp and fragrant.
Pizzeria La Famiglia, Bar-sur-Loup
A family-friendly favourite for an easy night in. Woodfired pizza, casual service, and a cosy atmosphere.
What to indulge in
Croissants
Every morning. There’s no more fitting start to the day than a fresh croissant from the village boulangerie — a daily ritual during the Kizeks' stay that defined their mornings with simple pleasure.
The coast
For a taste of Riviera elegance, a short drive to Saint-Raphaël is well worth it. Nestled between Saint-Tropez and Cannes, this seaside town inspired Shenol’s first perfume. The design-forward Hôtel Les Roches Rouges offers seafront rooms and a Michelin-starred dining experience at Récif, where modern Provençal seafood is served against a backdrop of the Mediterranean.
The world of scent
From fragrant museum gardens to the legacy of CHANEL BEAUTY’s flower fields, this is a region where perfume isn’t just made — it’s lived. For those with an appreciation of scent and craftsmanship, the experience is unforgettable.
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur offers more than just a picturesque backdrop — it’s a place that engages all the senses, where beauty is found in detail, and inspiration is often just a stroll away.
