Dressing with ease and effortlessness has always been a theme through the pandemic-ridden climate of the past two years, but as real-life away from the comfort of our couches begins to emerge as a glint in our eye, the past few seasons have nodded to a need to bust out of the sweatpants and grab dressing by the horns again. Proenza Schouler is vividly aware of this moment in time, and for Fall 2022, is tapping into a "soft launch" of sorts for purposeful dressing once again.
In the main exhibition space of the Brant Foundation, a violin quintet accompanies the Proenza Schouler Fall 2022 show with an original composition by Eartheater. And within the space Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of the brand ushered in a sense of formality for the activity-hungry consumer. At first beat, it is evident that the body acts as the starting point for the collection. Stripped back to reveal or layered upon to conceal, it all starts with molded bodices and fluid, bias cut skits that balloon away from the figure. Knitwear is sculpted to the form, while tailoring is both precise and loose, offering a sense of comfort in an otherwise structured silhouette. Suiting is layered over hooded undershirts and layered over again with ribbed knit zip up body shapers for the torso, compressing and exaggerating form.
Tight undershirts came accompanied with hoods, riffing on the balaclava trends that have pervaded the meta verse this season, and providing a sense of warmth and protection for the go forth woman. Amid a sea of olives, khaki's, beiges, and blacks, red leopard print, cobalt blue, and canary yellow punctuate the collection in fluid draped dresses and structured coats. In a throng of neutrals, they are almost eye-bleedingly bright, signalling at stepping into a new moment in time, breaking preconceived notions of how the adult woman dresses, and rebuilding it with an offering of architecture, modernism, and joy.
See the full collection, below.