There’s something exciting about discovering somewhere new, but what I truly love is returning to a place that feels familiar, one that evokes visceral memories and a sense of comfort.
I haven’t been to Vietnam for a long time; I first travelled there with one of my closest friends over ten years ago. Over this time, much has changed, yet arriving there felt surprisingly nostalgic. The core essence of the country remains the same: the warm, inviting people; a rich cultural history; an energy that’s both excitable and calming; and some of the most delicious, fresh food you can imagine.
This time, I was lucky enough to spend a week in Hội An with my family, in Vietnam’s Quảng Nam Province. As someone with a food background, this guide is mostly about places to eat, but it would be amiss to not mention some of the other wonderful things that this special place has to offer.
Where to eat and drink
We were greeted by a long but fast-moving queue. Inside, the first thing you notice is the impressive assembly line of bánh mì being made, fresh rolls coming straight from the oven; and in the corner of your eye, a photo of Anthony Bourdain enjoying a bite during the filming of There’s No Place Like Home – an ode to one of his favourite countries. We ate here twice. First, we tried the smoked ham hock bánh mì, and the second time, the popular pork crackling. Two strong contenders, I call it a draw.
Favourite breaktfast of the trip. Tucked down an alleyway in the old town, this shop is attached to the home of the restaurant owners and has a welcoming, communal feel to it. A beautiful, family-run business with a simple yet efficient pho station out front. Though you’re just steps away from the buzz of the ancient town, it feels peaceful as you slurp your pho and hear the laughter of children watching cartoons in the living room just a few metres away.
We first walked past this street stand on day one, intrigued by the mysterious mix of ingredients being scooped into bowls. Returning later in the week, we tasted ‘chè’, a sweet dessert made with mung beans, pandan jelly, ice, and coconut milk. A must-try.
Nữ Eatery - Worth a repeat visit. A quaint hole-in-the-wall restaurant with a modern take on traditional Vietnamese dishes. We returned for the soft steamed buns with glazed pork and crispy fish tacos.
Pop in before or after dinner. My order: first, a classic margarita with sour plum salt on the rim (a standout), followed by a refreshing paloma, perfect for cooling down in the humid weather.
A real treat. Try the traditional Vietnamese iced coffee, coconut coffee, and the rich, frothy egg coffee. These are all so moreish, I had to force myself to savour each and not drink them too fast.
Things to do
Last year, I completed a silversmithing course in Melbourne and since then, have been sketching pieces I haven’t had the chance (or skill) to make. In the middle of the cloth market, you’ll find Jimmy’s Jewellery. They offer both ready-made and custom pieces. I brought sketches of a wonky bracelet and a double-stacked ring, both were beautifully made and ready within two days.
Tailormade clothes
Hội An is well known for this, something that will become obvious when you see how many storefronts there are as you roam the streets. My favourite tailoring experience was just out of town at a homestay with a lovely woman named Huang. Even though the turnaround is impressively fast, be sure to allow time for a few fittings. (Thank you to my dear brother for carrying home a portion of my clothes, I may have slightly overestimated my suitcase space.)
Some other things that we enjoyed during our week – long stay included: walking through the ancient town in the evening lit by hundreds of handmade lanterns; visiting the local food markets followed by a cooking class; stretching at a yoga class overlooking An Bang beach at Naia Hội An; exploring the surrounding rice paddies; a day trip to Cham Islands; and enjoying some downtime whilst reading a book by the pool at our hotel (we stayed at The Legacy, Hội An).
Of course, this is such a small slice of what you can see in this beautiful country with such a rich offering, so I recommend that you see it for yourself. Happy travelling – hopefully not just once, but many times.
