Prolific in his story telling, Simon Porte Jacquemus is no foe to the novelties and motifs of life, sewing them into his collections as he captures his life and shares it through the fabrications of clothes. Porte stated once "I do stories – not clothes", and since, we have come to enjoy a story with child-like wonder with each Jacquemus show, leading us to ponder: What narrative will unfold in this 'Les Sculptures' collection?
Embracing fashion as a true art form is an imperative standard for creative directors. Taking that notion to new heights this season, and all seasons, is Jacquemus as he displayed his latest collection 'Les Sculptures' at the La Foundation Maeght. The art gallery that is full of sculptures, particularly many of Alberto Giacometti's, was the main inspiration for this Jacquemus collection. Porte is no stranger to an allusion or motif amongst his collections, knowing the value and emotive response in a good narrative. We often see this through the connection between the clothes and location of each debuted collection, forming a continuous thread from one season to the next; and this collection was no exception.
One of his first collections in 2015 was 'Les Parasols de Marseille' that depicted his childhood days on the south of France, with canary yellows and scarlet reds on the backdrop of white lopsided shirts where wet hair and candy like colours evoked a time of nostalgia.
As the 'Les Sculptures' show begins, the shift from classical piano instrumentals to the 80s classic hit, Sexual Healing, by Marvin Gaye was a delectable change. Opening the collection was Gigi Hadid, dressed in an eggshell yellow coat, setting the tone of what was to come with voluminous shoulder pads, pencil skirts and boxy silhouettes. Immediately, it felt like an homage to the 80s with animal prints and shoulder pads (hello, mob wife aesthetic?) gracing the runway – a familiar inspiration point that was also seen in some of the couture shows this season.
Who attended the Jacquemus 'Les Sculptures' show?
Aside from Gigi Hadid, there were a few familiar faces walking the runway – a who's who of fashion's hottest models of the minute. Amelia Gray, Vittoria Ceretti, Mona Tougaard and Jeanne Cadieu were just a few to name. And on the other side, the rows of distinguished guests and spectators didn't disappoint either. Social media was sure to capture the likes of Jack Harlow, Julia Roberts, PinkPantheres, Kristin Davis and Kylie Jenner with her most recent companion to fashion week, Stormi, in attendance – all dressed in the new collection, of course.
As artist Alberto Giacometti delves into the themes of sexuality and minimalism in design, Jacquemus not only absorbed it but masterfully transcended these themes in his latest collection. Through a blend of minimalism and sensuality, he depicted a distorted remaster on classical luxury, and consider us all in.
