One thing we know for certain is that sex has crept back onto the runways, and for Fall 2022, Hermès is no exception. Creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulsk has lent her own perspective to the sheer revival, one spearheaded by designers like Nensi Dojaka and Kim Jones at Fendi, with a collection that is at once, both sporty and sensual.
High above the assembled guests, models stalk the perimeter of the runway, flitting in and out of the shadows. A primal thumping begins, like that of a heartbeat, as the first look saunters down the mossy carpet. It's a suede and leather skirt suit with vertical lines and oxblood boots. Femininity that is slinky and unapologetic. Next arrives the aforementioned sheerness; transparent panelling with opaque strips and styled with a long line piecey gladiator skirt.
It is a collection rendered in autumnal hues of sage and olive green, stone, ashy blue, tawny brown, chestnut and cocoa. As the pace of the models quicken, the once pristine carpet becomes indented with footprints, a physical metaphor for the women's willingness to take up space.
It would not be a Hermès show without a nod to the French fashion House's equestrian heritage. Here Vanhee-Cybulsk lets the female form guide this tribute. Catsuits and leather pants are stand ins for jodhpurs while legs are elongated with transparent stockings slinking up the thigh and riding boots, chisel-toed and adapted for lightness. Belt pouches draw from saddlery, with 'H' shaped hardware, leather clasps and piping lining the showing of outerwear; think capes, leather trenches and pea coats.
Sweaters go geometric and are styled with suede striped hot pants. A periwinkle dress dances breezily around the body. Blouses with plunging V-necklines are embellished with a display of ruffles. The covetable Kelly handbag has been reworked into a crossbody, slung high across the chest like a chic bumbag. Robust materials are made weightless, equipping the wearer but not hindering their freedom or movement. A wardrobe for the woman on the move.
Watch the Hermès Fall Winter 2022 collection, below.