Gucci's Fall Winter 24 menswear collection debuted at Milan Fashion Week on Friday afternoon, expanding on creative director Sabato De Sarno's "Ancora" manifesto, and doubling-down on his vision of refined sophistication after nearly a decade of nostalgic and wistful maximalism at the Italian fashion House.
De Sarno's sophomore runway show for Gucci proposed sharp and alluring menswear, laced with leather gloves, smartly tailored suiting, double-breasted blazers, classic horsebit loafers and of course, De Sarno's signature 'Gucci Rosso' hue – a deep and rich shade of oxblood that also permeated his Spring 24 debut collection last September.
Despite the lack of overt opulence in De Sarno's vision of Gucci, sparkle still peaked through via glittering, crystal-embellished denim trousers, vests and chokers; while riffs on more traditional monochrome tuxedo looks concluded the runway presentation.
De Sarno certainly appears to be tapping into the popularity of 'quiet luxury' trends and the irreverence of the House's classic accessories, like the iconic Jackie 1961 bag that made several appearances on the runway.
With another collection for the House under his belt, De Sarno's Gucci feels like a fairly definitive continuation and confirmation of the more relatable and strategic vision from his debut, at least compared to his predecessor. This is perhaps why the show was aptly dubbed 'Mirroring'.
Gucci's Fall Winter 24 soundtrack was also a nod to this theme, featuring Mark Ronson's remixes of Late Night Feelings and Ancora, ancora, ancora, with the addition of Masculinity by French artist Lucky Love.
On the collection, De Sarno's show notes elaborated: "It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words."
See all our favourite looks, below, and find out more about the show on the Gucci website.