It is Paris like you've always dreamt it to be. For Dior Men's Winter 2022/23, Kim Jones immediately sets the tone for his tribute to Christian Dior. After all, what is Dior without Paris and Paris without Dior? Against the backdrop of the quietly flowing Seine along the recreated bridge of Pont Alexandre III on the year of the 75th anniversary of Christian Dior, Jones nods to the legacy of Dior by rewinding the clock to riff on the New Look.
For his post-World War II silhouette, Christian Dior brought forward the idea of his "flower women", with full skirts, soft shoulders and cinched waists. For Jones, who has been designing throughout the course of the COVID-19 pandemic, he debuts a counterpoint to this, with "flower men", in the literal sense and in the more abstract. Models trail down the runway in soft berets carrying bouquet-shaped leather and canvas bags filled with roses, waists are ever-so-slightly cinched, and in contrast to Monsieur Dior's heavily tailored couture of the 1950's, Jones offers sweatpants as a contradiction, one that riffs on our experience of the last two years.
The floral expressions - held so dear to Dior's heart - were overt in the literal carrying of bouquets, but subtle in the way they were translated onto garments. There were slouchy gardening slacks paired with an exclusive Dior X Birkenstock clog for the more casual interpretation, and organza-covered puffer jackets with Lily of The Valley motifs embroidered into the silhouettes. Stephen Jones worked across berets, marking 25 years of his working with the House. There were jewel-encrusted derby shoes, ropes of freshwater grey pearls by Yoon Ahn, emerald pendants, and a high jewellery tennis bracelet created by Victoire de Castellane.
Jones brought forward a sense of modern romanticism that Dior, and Paris, evoke so well. If not in the intricate organza floral appliqué's and leopard damasks in powder-blue and muted mustard, in the layering of silhouettes. Structured grey sweatpants were paired with loose cotton poplin shirts, layered with preppy knitwear sweatshirts and brought together with Jones' first ever take on the Bar jacket - the silhouette that remains one of the House's most iconic and untouchable silhouettes to date.
Discover more about the Savoir Faire of the Bar Jacket, below.
It was one of the most notable themes in the collection, with Jones delivery of the Bar jacket flawlessly executed in contemporary fashion. They moved purposefully down the runway in a sea of grey's (one of Christian Dior's most beloved shades) and myriad of fabrications. There were iterations in stonewashed denim, felt, heavy jersey, and crêpe-de-chine, with subtle pleating at the waists. Jones switched out the corseting and heavy padding of the original Bar jacket with fluted draping at the front, silky textures, and exposed stitching.
Amid the expert tailoring of the Bar jacket, overcoats, and embroidered puffers, was a sense of looseness to the collection. Shirts remained untucked, Dior branded boxers peeked out the top of sweatpants, socks were scrunched to the ankle. Paris' youth crept through historic motifs to make room for the new guard. Jones' new guard.
Watch the show and view the Dior Mens Winter 2022/23 collection, below.