In the midst of London Fashion Week for Fall Winter 2024, there's probably no brand more evocative of Great British style than the House of Burberry. Now presenting its third show under the creative eye of Daniel Lee, their vision for the House's Fall Winter 24 collection was inspired by notions of the great British and Irish outdoors; an ode to Britishness reminiscent of Christopher Bailey’s Burberry that championed emerging artists and English youth culture in the early 2000s and 2010s. Showing for the first time at London's Victoria Park, the evening was a star-studded affair, counting Saltburn star Barry Keoghan, Bridgerton's leading man Jonathan Bailey, DJ Peggy Gou and UK rapper Central Cee in its front row.
"I wanted this collection to feel warm and protective," said Lee of the collection. "The collection itself is inspired by British and Irish wool and fabric, centred around protection and warmth. Burberry trenches are designed with texture in mind. Coats are at the core, shoes and bags are functional. These pieces are made for the outdoors."
Revamping classic silhouettes and epochal styles for alfresco environs, Lee's starting point was the compendium of Burberry archives, and the mills of Lochcarron and Donegal. Set to the dulcet tones of Amy Winehouse’s You Know I’m No Good, the collection centred on a muted, earthy palette of greens, browns and greys, highlighting plenty of outerwear in the form of heritage-check trenches, fur-trimmed coats, frayed knitwear, supple leather puffers and teddy-bear cashmere banker's coats.
A definitively vintage feeling permeated the collection – perhaps due to its use of 70s and 80s-inspired silhouettes complete with aviator sunglasses and fur coats that felt like an elevated take on your mum's Parisian thrift-store find. Accessories – one of Lee's specialties – saw plenty of new renditions of his signature Knight Bag (complete with a new version of their now-signature knight clip), as well as slouchy green-check clutches and fringed leather boot-loafer hybrids in blacks, khakis and ox blood. The biker boot was still around, plum and slate grey renditions peeking out from the slits of floor-length checked skirts (a personal favourite look from RUSSH Editor-In-Chief Jess Blanch, who was runway-side for the showing). Thigh-high leather boots and scrunched biker boots were some of the more novel footwear designs to make their way down the runway.
The focus at Burberry for FW24 remains on firmly heritage and craftsmanship. "There’s a sense of craft in this collection. I wanted to take a traditional approach to the fabrics and how each piece is made," said Lee. "Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of design." In keeping with this sense of heritage and tradition, British icons were pervasive even on the runway; walking the show were Lily Donaldson, Karen Elson, Lily Cole, and some newer faces like Lennon Gallagher (son of Oasis singer, Liam) and Maya Wigram (daughter of Phoebe Philo). Opening the show was the inimitable Agyness Deyn, and closing was the icon herself, Naomi Campbell.
Experience the Burberry FW4 collection for yourself by perusing a curated selection of looks, below.
Read our London Fashion Week FW24 highlights for more show reviews and fashionable moments, or check out our London Fashion Week FW24 street style recap.
Imagery: GoRunway
