New York Fashion Week has kicked off in the Big Apple, bringing together some of the east coast's biggest names in fashion… from coquette queen Sandy Liang to all-American vanguard Tommy Hilfiger's return to the runway. We'll see Peter Do's sophomore showing for Helmut Lang and of course, the whimsy and delightfully femme showings of Collina Strada. Catch all the NYFW Fall Winter 2024 highlights below.
Kicking off our NYFW Fall Winter 2024 highlights was Peter Do's sophomore runway presentation for the house of Helmut Lang. A continuation of his dark and refined debut last September, this collection channelled a more industrial approach to streetwear in the most literal sense of the word. Bubble-wrap blouses and trousers were interspersed with puffer jackets and sturdy parkas in crimson reds, and Teddy Bear browns, before head-to-toe checked looks took centre stage. Knitted, zip-up jumpers with attached balaclavas were the accessory of choice, peeking out from under tailored woollen two-piece suits and coats.
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta's latest collection seemed centred on trying to define contemporary dressing – although they described it as "remembering America as though you're standing on an orange milk crate hearing it crack under the weight of you thinking… 'what will happen next?'". Looking out at the NYC skyline, the show was soundtracked live by LA musician Loren Kramar, who performed renditions of songs by quintessential American artists like Lous Reed and Lana Del Rey, as shaggy jackets and knits made their way down the runway, accompanied by featherweight sheer jersey tops and sliced-up silk dresses.
Sandy says: the bows have got to go! Of-the-moment designer Sandy Liang held her Fall Winter 24 show this week – and there was a noticeable toning down of their signature bow-adorned looks. Yes, if you look closely, the bows were still very much present, but this time they crept in as brooch-like embellishments on models' lapels, or daintily adorned ballet flats. Overall, the collection was refined in feeling, straddling both preppy Y2K-inspired tracksuits and some rather presidential-looking tailored suit sets in satins and florals. Sandy certainly gets our vote.
Grand Central Station’s Oyster Bar was taken over by designer all-American Tommy Hilfiger for their Fall Winter 24 presentation, where attendees were served martinis and champagne around saloon-style cocktail tables. Soundtracked by Questlove, Hilfiger revisited wardrobe essentials with fresh eyes – like baseball caps, oxford polos, chunky chinos and long line cardigans in a patriotic palette of reds, whites, caramels and whites.
"How does one insulate themselves from the cacophony of the moment while still finding a way to engage, be present, to create and evolve?" It was the question at the centre of Proenza Schouler's latest collection presentation, which took over the Chelsea Factory in New York this week. Exploring the interplay between the outside world and our private, innermost one, their Fall Winter 24 collection was at once diaphanous and sensual; hand-sheared shearling, leather, and double face cashmere garments layered to juxtapose inner and outer, hard and soft.
While Sandy Liang might have moved on from the bows, Coach was leaning in. The House's Fall Winter 24 presentation at The James B. Duke House – a landmark Upper East Side mansion designed by Horace Trumbauer in 1912 – was aimed at unlocking the idea of "classicism" for a new generation; reimagining what luxury might look like for a younger audience. Biker boots and hoodies juxtaposed full silk skirts in pinks and emerald greens, each embellished with whimsically oversized bows and camp bag key chains.
Anything goes in Collina Strada's universe – and for their Fall Winter 24 "STRONGER." show, at Rockefeller Center, designer Hillary Taymour welcomed showgoers to “Collina’s Gym,”. Reinterpreting the traditional masculine world of the gym – and the femme body long been shaped by the imagination of men – models donned graphic deadstock textiles and lifted weight-shaped squashes down the runway.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Photographer Robert Mapplethorpe was the muse at the centre of Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin's FW24 debut NYFW show. Since his adolescence, de Saint Sernin has found Mapplethorpe to be a kindred soul, but said that this collection was finally “the right moment to not only honour his work but his life too.” Velvet renditions of Mapplethorpe's famous flowers were appliqued onto sheer backless tops, while his eroticism shone through in BDSM-styled harnesses and chainmail detailing.