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Biologique Recherche’s newest innovation is a micro-needling patch – here’s how it works

The French have always been on the forefront of skincare, so it is no surprise that a brand like Biologique Recherche is pioneer and innovator in the space. Heralded for its highly effective - if slightly odd-smelling - cult formulations, like Lotion P50, this is a brand found in the cupboards of beauty editors, celebrities and tastemakers the world over. So naturally, when Biologique Recherche develops a new product, there is hype for a reason.

The latest innovation from the brand is one that may be its most unique yet. It's a micro-needling patch, one designed to deliver select ingredients in a targeted fashion. Yes, there are lots of micro-needling patches on the market, but where most of the ones out there target acne or zits, this one is designed to target melasma - also know as hyperpigmentation. It's called μ-Fill PIGM 400.

Of course there are lots of products that are designed to minimise hyperpigmentation. If you're someone that is bothered by potential hyperpigmentation, you probably already own a few serums and creams that bright and even your complexion. While many of them are quite effective, the problem is that, as a product applied to the whole face, they affect the whole face. So if you're someone that doesn't want all your freckles faded or skin to lighten, many of the current hyperpigmentation solutions may not work for you. And μ-Fill PIGM 400 is the solution.



This is a patch that has been designed to place over dark spots or any particular areas of concern, allowing you to target them with a more potent ingredients than you would normal apply over your whole face. And it also allows you to control the areas you choose to target, giving you the ability to preserve freckles if you're someone like that wants to keep them.

It works through a localised delivery of brightening active ingredients as close as possible to the site of melanocytes (the cells that product protective darker pigments) to reduce the intensity of the colour in that area. The ingredients come courtesy of tiny, dissolvable needles, ones inspired by the micro-needling technology used in aesthetic medicine. They're made of 100% hyaluronic acid, solidified anti- melanogenesis, anti-glycation and antioxidant active ingredients and are capable of penetrating the deepest layers of the epidermis.

Each one comes in a sealed packet. Open it up, remove the plastic shell, and peel off patch off its lining. Just be careful not to touch the needles. Place the patch, needle side down over the mark you wish to target and press down so the micro-needles can penetrate the skin. It doesn't hurt. If I had to describe the sensation, it feels almost like a grainy scrub would when you rub it on your skin. You feel the bumpy texture, but that is really all. It's best to do this at night and leave it on for a good eight hours or more undisturbed, in order to allow the ingredients to work.



Now for the nerdy stuff, these work in three ways. The particular concoction of ingredients help to regulate melanin synthesis (he production of melanin) and transfer to the cells on the outer most layer of skin in order to inhibit skin colour on the surface. As for the second and third function of the patches, I will quote directly from the product description as it gets technical from here.

"Their anti-glycation action reduces the AGE content (advanced glycation end products) in the cell medium, thereby combating the excess production of melanin. Lastly, they limit lipofuscin synthesis for enhanced lightening action. Localised pigmentation marks are reduced."

In essence, these reduce the over production of melanin locally and fade dark patches, but without lightening the skin around the dark patch.

Does it work? Well I'm still at the beginning of my treatment. For optimal results, these patches should be used as part of a one-month program. So, the effects won't be perceptible for me just yet. But I am loving the simplicity of these patches. It's a great solution for anyone wanting a targeted product.

You can read more at Biologique Recherche.