Athens is a place full of surprises. Beyond the landmarks and tourist spots lies another side of the city — one made up of small, local places that are easy to miss unless you know where to look. Tucked-away tavernas, family-run bakeries, and neighbourhood wine bars serving incredible food without the fuss.
For Heleena Trahanas, co-founder of ALEX AND TRAHANAS, these are the places that make Athens feel like home. Whether she’s in town shooting a collection, sourcing ceramics, or simply chasing the sun, food is always at the centre of it. Here, she shares her personal list of the best low-key spots to eat and drink in Athens — from souvlaki joints and rooftop bars to traditional dairy shops and modern Greek kitchens.
Foyer Espresso Bar
This is the best coffee shop in Athens. Run by brothers Makis and Giorgios Papantoniou, Foyer is a meeting place for creatives, where artists, musicians and writers gather. Fittingly, it also features a piece of art by my friend Michael McGregor. It also sells delicious Greek pastries such as pitas and bougasta buns.
Stani
Over in downtown Athens you'll find the most delicious Greek yoghurt drizzled with honey and walnuts. Choose from cow, goat or sheep’s milk. It is one of the last surviving traditional dairy bars and exudes old-world charm. A must visit for an authentic culinary experience.
Dolce Far Niente
Dolce Far Niente does a delicious Greek yoghurt, honey and walnut gelato, best ordered with a glass of crisp dry white or rose wine.
Akra
A go to located in the hip Athenian suburb of Pangrati, go for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Known for its open kitchen and wood-fired style of cooking, a modest space with flavour dense dishes. The menu changes daily, giving you a reason to keep returning. During the day you can pick up delicious pastries and loaves of bread all made on site.
Linou Soumpbasis and Sia
A favourite of ours! George Soumpasis (one half of LSANDSIA) is the most hospitable restauranteur. It’s a MUST whenever we’re in Athens. 'Athina', our newest ALEX AND TRAHANAS edition of ceramics was photographed there recently by photographer Chris Kontos. It’s a Michelin-approved eatery.
With its minimalist aesthetic, share-style dining, and modern interpretations of Greek classics using only the freshest ingredients to prepare everything in house , it captures the essence of the “New Athens", while still honouring traditional Greek cuisine. The space is illuminated by sweet smelling beeswax candles you find in Greek churches (they’re handmade and are available to purchase). The food is exceptional.
Other mouth-watering favourites include Taverna ton Filon, Seychelles and Pharaoh, who reinterpret traditional flavours with bold simplicity and celebrate the spirit of yiayia while ushering in a new, minimalist Mediterranean modernism.
Diporto
This underground traditional taverna is an all-time favourite. It’s like stepping back in time into an old-school Greek tavernas, which date back to 1887. You enter down some steep stone steps into a cellar-like room, with concrete floors, wooden wine barrels lining the walls, old antique marble sinks, and nostalgic aluminium wine jugs. There’s no printed menu – Mitsos, the owner who has been operating it since youth, will serve you about 5-6 dishes of the day along with house wine which is typically retsina, a dry white wine served by the kilo in aluminium jugs. Bread is simply placed on your table covered in a sheet of butcher’s paper.
Souvlaki
We purchased lunch for our crew here (thanks to Chris Kontos, @kennedymagazine for the recommendation) when we were shooting ALEX AND TRAHANAS’ “Athina” edition at 10AM. It’s a humble hole-in-the-wall-looking souvlaki place located in the suburb of Gazi. Go there for the best pork souvlakia served with fresh bread (I’m generally not a huge fan of pork but these were succulent). We went back the next day to enjoy the no-frills taverna. They have a super cute overgrown courtyard, walls adorned in old art, and photos and a TV screen thoughtfully placed in a corner. It was filled with locals and workman enjoying a wholesome Greek meal. It felt like you were sitting in the back courtyard of your grandparents' place.
Rooftop at Hotel Grand Bretange
On my final night in Athens, I loved spending sunset here enjoying a martini, staring at the Acropolis and being mesmerised by the antiquity of Athens.
Kennedy Vins
This is a chic and intimate wine and listening bar founded by photographer and music aficionado Chris Kontos and his wife Athina Delyannis. A place with soul, specialising in natural wine from small French producers, you’ll find a rotating menu complemented by a small snack menu featuring quality charcuterie and canned delicacies. Often Chris will be spinning CDs and vinyl from his extensive personal collection.
Wine is Fine
This intimate wine bar and bistro is part of the Athens “new wave “dining scene. Think natural and low- intervention wines primarily from France and Greece, a concise seasonally inspired menu, outdoor seating with tables dressed in white tablecloths, and a communal feeling. You’ll find a mix of locals and travellers.
Want to make the most of your trip to Greece? Here are 10 islands worth visiting next.
