
On a recent journey through India, ILIO Nema founders, Ariane Leonardis and Katia Kelso delved into Jodhpur – the famed 'Blue City'. A riot of sights and sounds, Jodhpur sits immersed in the stark beauty of the Thar Desert in the North Western part of the country.
This captivating gem is brimming with history. Decadent architecture decorates the city scape, mouth-watering street food carts frame the sandy roads, and local artisans display their vibrant wares on most corners. It's easy to see why Jodhpur is one of India's tourist hotspots – it's easily one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
Below, Leonardis and Kelso share their guide to what to see, eat and where to stay in Jodhpur, one of India's most enchanting cities.
What to do
The Old City
Known as the Blue City, the vibrant azures are fading as fewer houses are painted blue, often due to cost. We visited early in the morning, which we highly recommend as you can enjoy the stunning hand-painted walls and temples without the crowds.
We stumbled across this wonderful non-profit while visiting Toorjis Ka Jhalra Bavdi stepwell in the old city. They started in Jaipur to support weavers and local artisans. You can find stunning handlooms, jamdanis and blankets made from white cotton and natural indigo—truly special artisanal pieces.
Toorjis Ka Jhalra Bavdi
In the heart of the old walled city lies an 18th-century stepwell. We were inspired by this magical spot with stunning carvings crafted from rose-red sandstone.
Mehrangarh Fort
Not to be missed. Epic expansive views of the old blue city and an incredible palace inside the fort’s grand walls. It’s perched on sandstone hills, 400 feet above the Thar Desert, and feels like you're standing above it all. Be mesmerised by the stunning stone carvings, delicate windows and peaceful courtyards.
Jaswant Thada
The cenotaph, a cremation ground for the royal Rajput family of Marwar, is crafted from intricately carved Makrana marble—the same used for the Taj Mahal. The sun reflection off the marble glowed. Truly beautiful.
This is a little treasure emporium. As it used to be a pawn shop you will find some antique pieces mixed in with wonderful artisanal crafts. All the textiles are found in the basement but if you are willing to dig you can find some treasures.
Maharani Spices
For an assault to the senses, it is definitely worth checking out this incredible spices and perfume shop in the old city. Purchase some saffron or just enjoy the aromas of Jasmine, Tabac Rose and other beautiful scents.
Mandore Gardens
If you are looking for a late-afternoon escape, venture 20 minutes outside the city, where you’ll find a cenotaph with beautifully carved stone tombs. If you're feeling adventurous, hike to the top of the hill for a breathtaking view at sunset.
Temples
Each one with its own unique characteristics, make sure you stop, take your shoes off and go inside.
Where to eat
Vijay Restaurant
Bring your cash and get your taste buds ready for a local experience. This old-school vegetarian spot in the heart of the old city feels like you stepped back in time. We let the server choose our dishes, and everything was delicious.
Raas Jodhpur
For a cocktail and stunning views, the rooftop is perfect. We highly recommend enjoying a drink here in the evening or dining in their beautiful restaurant.
Indique Restaurant
Another rooftop favourite of ours. Delicious Indian food with breathtaking views.
Shani Samosa Arona Namkeen
For the best samosas in town, this is the spot. It’s a street food gem, churning out 3,000 samosas a day, so it’s guaranteed they’re fresh and delicious. We sampled multiple.
Motu Jalebiwala
If you’re keen to experience some delightful Indian dessert head here where you’ll find traditional sweet street treats. Fried in ghee and dipped in syrup flavoured with saffron and cardamom, they’re light, crispy, and far more delicate and delicious than you’d expect.
Where to stay
We chose to stay here, just 10 minutes from the busy old city. It’s a charming boutique hotel with cosy guesthouse vibes—very private, with beautiful wall paintings and blooming gardens. Perks include exclusive access to hidden areas of the old town, giving you a unique city tour. Breakfast is delicious, service is top-notch, and our favourite detail was the hot water bottles in our bed at night. Perfect for the cool winter weather at the time.
If you’re up for something luxurious we popped into Raas Hotel for a drink and discovered it was a beautiful oasis. Located in the heart of the old city, at the foot of Mehrangarh Fort, this hotel offers breathtaking views, which you can take in from the pool.