Alessandro Michele’s second ready-to-wear collection for Valentino was a philosophical interrogation of intimacy itself. Staged in Paris last night, the Valentino FW25 presentation unfolded like a mise en abyme, layering identity, performance, and the ritual of dressing into a visual and intellectual spectacle.
The location ...
The collection’s conceptual framework was all about intimacy – the illusion of authenticity, the impossibility of ever fully undressing the self, the constant interplay between surface and depth. The setting? A hyper-stylised, red-flooded public restroom – Michele’s chosen liminal space where the private and the public collide. With its stark lighting and surreal aura, it was a Lynchian backdrop to the clothing itself.
The guests ...
Guests at the show included ambassadors and friends of the House like Freen, Jeff Satur, Clario, Charlotte Lawrence, Jared Leto, Barry Keoghan, Chappell Roan, Nara Smith and more...
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The clothing ...
This idea translated directly into the clothes. There was an intentional tension between concealment and revelation: sculptural coats enveloped models like protective shells, while sheer slip dresses whispered of vulnerability. The opening look – a severe black overcoat paired with a white lace nightgown – set the tone for a collection that revelled in contradiction. Lace-trimmed gloves extended past the elbow, subverting notions of aristocratic elegance with a hint of fetishism. Velvet and tulle were layered over distressed suiting.
The Valentino red of seasons past made an appearance, but here, it was muted, oxidised, as if aged in a dream. Instead, the palette veered toward deep browns, ashen greys, and midnight blues—shades that felt intimate, lived-in, almost secretive. Accessories played into the theatrics: pillowy leather bags carried like delicate burdens, exaggerated collars framing the face like a proscenium arch. Shoes, too, carried weight – chunky, grounded.
