Balancing old-world charm with a contemporary edge that cuts through, Seoul has a humble panache that is making it a certified hot spot – and one that has cropped up on seemingly on everyone’s must-visit list. Whether you’re looking to board the plane home with a glass-like epidermis or to eat your body weight in kimchi, Seoul has it all, and then some.

Traversing along the Han River, Seoul awakens its inhabitants with a hum of street traffic, an all-too-familiar alarm clock to city dwellers. For Tamsin Johnson, mornings here are the prelude to a throng of Korean beauty treatments, whilst evenings warmly welcome ceaseless plates of Hanwoo beef, with intermissions fuelled by sips of soju. 

Ahead, she walks us through her Seoul checklist – take notes.

To stay

Stay at The Shilla Hotel. Perched on a hillock with East and West views, it has an old-world, classical confidence and subtle, glamorous feeling to it and is owned by the Samsung Group. It has a sprawling and impressively decorated traditional-style building annexed to the hotel, featuring a beautiful garden perched on the knoll. It is also home to some incredible restaurants, including Ariake, which is the best Japanese restaurant in Seoul, and has abundant facilities, including a golf driving range.

To eat

Eat at the Hyundai food court. Take a breath, it is extensive, almost too many options and amazing groceries to peruse too… Find your sweet spot; there are no bad options in here. 

Omiga Sinsa in Gangnam was another favourite spot for dinner or lunch; it is very authentic and perfect as your initial exposure to traditional Korean cuisine. It’s a set menu of about 20 small plates, beer and soju that entirely fill the table until you can’t see the timber. 

To bath

Go to the Spa at Insadong spa and sauna for the famous Korean scrub, steam and massage. You leave with silky smooth skin and glowing after being bossed around by gorgeous older ladies in their underwear for an hour.

Stay in the area, and if you're hungry for lunch after the bath house, we stumbled across the most gorgeous little restaurant called Gisaeng – a simple little udon restaurant where your meal is delivered from behind a little curtain disguising the kitchen. After the noodles, explore Insadong Street for traditional calligraphy stores, ceramics and gorgeous little shops scattered around this area. We got lost in some tiny local markets and found the most beautiful salt bread shop with meticulous packaging, and the bread melts in your mouth.

To pamper

Blow-dry and hair treatment at Chahong Ardor. I had a foot massage and three chic hairdressers doing my hair at the same time. Needless to say, it was a fab little experience.  

Go to Hoan for any facial pampering you need. This is the one the Kardashians possibly put on the map. 

We also went to DA for hydrafacials, which is about 12 floors of anything from an IV drip to a face lift so you can really pick your poison here.

To shop

Dumplings at Myeondong Kyoja. Established in 1966, and a Michelin Star offer with only four dishes. You're in-and-out in about 20 minutes, and your dishes are delivered to you on little robot trollies. The area of Myeong-dong is a little ‘Times Square’ in feel, but home to all the fun shopping for all things Korean and quirky. Great for presents to take home, like K-Pop merch. 

Lemaire and Margiela have the most beautiful freestanding stores here, set up in traditional old buildings with lovely surrounding gardens you can just hang out in. This area is an intriguing spot to wander around with great architecture and lots of beautiful international flagship shops. 

Boontheshop - this was the best multi-brand store with lots of my favourite labels mixed with some quality local brands too. Wander around to Corso Como after, it’s always a pleasure and a remarkable building design in itself.

Visit the tea room at the new Gentle Monster store. The room is the perfect clash of dark purple, green and cherry red, and again, the building itself is a must-see. 

Olive Young for all things skin care – we loaded up on masks and they’re amazing value.

To drink

Bar Soko for cocktails has a great vibe with a 1920s theme, very cool bar staff, all immaculately dressed and very serious about cocktails.  

Zest is also a beautiful cocktail bar, but important to book as it is small and fills up. They make all the ingredients themselves, which is crazy (Tom, who has never had a cocktail, had his socks blown off). It is opposite in feel to Soko but has a great timber bent wood fit-out and also makes a very pure, delicious martini. 

For the OG of Korean BBQs, go to Born and Bred and book in advance. This was a terrific meal – Hanwoo beef at its finest.

For art

Definitely see the Leeum Art Museum in Hannam. This was a really special experience with truly incredible local and international art and ceramics. The gift store was hard to leave without some glass or ceramics and the area was my favourite spot to just wander the steep streets with its very pretty and impressive homes. There is a mix of clothing, cafes and even some cute little natural wine bars. A nice local store we enjoyed was Pottery. 

Other tips

Google Maps doesn't work in Korea; instead, Naver Maps will get you around. There is perhaps less English speaking than you might (arrogantly) expect, so whip out voice translation on your phone. Seoul is so friendly and kind-spirited on the whole, making it a very pleasant experience wherever you are.