Smashbox Dual Filter is designed to cover only what you want it to- RUSSH

In partnership with Smashbox

There was a time when a good foundation was judged largely by what it could hide. But today, our understanding of a flawless complexion is more sophisticated. We're increasingly less concerned with erasure and instead, fixated on preserving the visual complexity of what we would call "real skin". We want our visage to retain its texture, its luminosity, even some of its imperfection – freckles, moles, birth marks, maybe even some laugh lines. Our idea of what creates the perfect base now lies in knowing what to leave alone.

Beauty note – A fresh, skin-like finish begins with Smashbox Photo Finish Correct Anti-Redness Primer to neutralise redness and create an even canvas. A touch of Smashbox Dual Filter 2-in-1 Concealer + Foundation in 'Fair Light Neutral' perfects only where needed, while Smashbox Precision Contour Stick in Light brings soft definition without taking away from the natural finish.

Interestingly, this has long been part of the thinking at Smashbox. The brand’s roots lie in a Los Angeles photography studio, where brothers Dean and Davis Factor used makeup as an extension of their on-set pragmatism: products that needed to perform, and withstand the particular demands of a set, where heat, light, movement and the tight-shot scrutiny of a camera had a habit of revealing what the naked eye might miss.

There’s a through-line from that thinking to Smashbox's new Dual Filter 2-in-1 Concealer + Foundation. Complexion products have become increasingly fluid in both texture and purpose – foundation is sheerer, concealer more versatile, and the distinction between makeup and skincare has become increasingly difficult to differentiate. Dual Filter has been designed as both foundation and concealer, meaning it can be worked across the complexion or concentrated only where additional coverage makes sense.

"The key is not applying the same level of coverage everywhere," says Lori Taylor Davis, Smashbox's Global Pro Lead Artist. "By customising coverage based on the needs of different areas of the face, the complexion looks more dimensional, natural, and believable both in person and on camera."

The formula also reflects the continuing convergence of makeup and skincare. The distinction between the categories has become increasingly porous; we now expect complexion makeup to consider the condition and comfort of the skin beneath it, rather than simply what sits on top. Dual Filter contains 98 per cent naturally derived ingredients, with 71 per cent skin-caring ingredients, and is vegan and cruelty-free.

Beauty note – Sheer, barely-there skin puts the focus on a stronger, deeper brow. Smashbox Photo Finish Correct Anti-Redness Primer creates a calm, even base, with Smashbox Dual Filter 2-in-1 Concealer + Foundation in 'Fair Light Neutral' used sparingly to perfect the complexion while retaining its natural texture.

The format encourages a technique makeup artists have long employed – treating the face as a collection of different textures and tones rather than one uniform surface. A convincingly natural base rarely requires equal coverage everywhere, and pigment might be concentrated beneath the eyes, around the nose or over areas of discolouration, while clearer areas of skin are largely left alone. Dual Filter's pump accommodates this kind of broader application as a foundation, while twisting the component reveals a doe-foot applicator apt for smaller, more deliberate placement as a concealer.

"Application technique is just as important as the product itself," says Taylor Davis. "I like pressing and blending product into the skin rather than laying it on top. When the complexion has variation in texture, tone, and light reflection, it feels human and authentic. Leaving a little bit of natural skin visible is often what creates the most beautiful finish."

The finish follows a similar philosophy. Naturally radiant and deliberately skin-like, the formula softens the appearance of uneven texture and fine lines without completely obscuring the complexion beneath it. But coverage can move from sheer to full, allowing application to be dictated by the skin rather than an expectation that the entire face should have the same degree of opacity.

Beauty note – Glowing, even skin is prepped with Smashbox Photo Finish Correct Anti-Redness Primer. Smashbox Dual Filter 2-in-1 Concealer + Foundation in 'Fair Light Neutral' is applied with a light hand for seamless coverage, finished with brows fluffed and softly defined using Smashbox Brow Tech Matte Pencil.

This idea of blur is also particularly pertinent to Smashbox – seeing as their cult Photo Finish Primer was originally developed in response to the flash-back realities of photography. Of course, these days the scope has changed. High-definition cameras have been joined by hi-def smartphones, front-facing cameras and the peculiar intimacy of seeing our own faces on screens throughout the day – on Zoom meets in an office, or on nightly FaceTime calls with loved ones. The interesting response from beauty brands has not simply been more coverage, but increasingly sophisticated formulas designed to create optical refinement without the obvious presence of heavy makeup.

Longevity has evolved in parallel. Dual Filter is crease-resistant and formulated to withstand sweat, humidity and water, while maintaining a comfortable, naturally radiant quality on the skin. It’s indicative of a broader shift in complexion makeup: performance is increasingly something we expect not to see. Long-wear no longer necessarily announces itself through an intensely powdered or immovable finish.

"Longevity is really about smart placement and layering product lightly," Taylor Davis says. "Always starting with a primer helps the foundation to do what it is formulated to do and not just more product. I build coverage in thin layers and allow each layer to settle before adding more. I also pay close attention to skin preparation, because makeup performs best when the skin underneath is balanced and the needs of the skin are meet. Finally, I set strategically. Rather than powdering the entire face, I focus on areas that tend to experience movement or shine. This keeps the complexion looking fresh, breathable, and comfortable throughout the day while still delivering the wear and coverage clients expect."

"The most beautiful complexion isn't the one that looks covered," Taylor Davis reiterates, "it's the one that looks like incredible skin. My job is to perfect, not disguise."

So where is the contemporary approach to foundation headed? Not quite bare skin, but not the uniform veil of makeup that defined complexion in decades past either. Instead, it is about specificity: understanding texture, manipulating light and applying coverage with restraint and distinction.