How Shiseido Ultimune works to slow the skin ageing process

WORDS Emily Algar PUBLISHED Tue, 1 Apr 2025 - 2:45 pm

Most of the skincare industry is primarily focused on fixing problems — wrinkles, breakouts, uneven tone. But in Japan, prevention takes precedence over cure. Why 'fix' when you can maintain a general state of skin wellbeing, instead? This ethos applies to the wider Japanese culture around health and wellness. They believe in self-care and self-cultivation — even the medical system is very much focused on preventative care (they have the high life expectancies to prove it).

This was a guiding principle during the development of Shiseido's Ultimune Power Infusing Serum. Already a cult formula, the latest version uses plant science to slow down skin ageing by activating Memory T-Cells which, in turn, 'destroy' ageing cells. It's not a 'fix' for ageing, but instead proven to slow it down.

I recently spent time in Tokyo learning all about the innovation (having trialed, it's incredible — Japanese skincare is beyond), and had the chance to speak with Shiseido Global Vice President Emi Wanatabe and Director of Product Development Yuko Ameno on the updated serum. Everything I learnt, below.

Why does the skin age?

We know that our skin starts ageing from birth — it's a biological process, but when we're exposed to factors such as UV or stress, it's expedited. This leads to the accumulation of aged cells that, when impacted by further inflammation, show up on our face as wrinkles, lines, sagging and discolouration. Ageing is essentially the breakdown of optimal cellular function; it happens when our 'healthy' cells are damaged or diseased.

The Japanese approach to skincare

Japanese skincare is known for its fusion of art and science — ritual and routine are just as important as results. "In oriental culture, including within Japan, there is an idea or belief that we all have an innate capability to be and feel beautiful," explains Wanatabe. "At Shiseido we aim to combine this human element with the latest advancements in skincare technology, it's very unique."

If you've tried Japanese formulations, you'll understand how texturally-focused things are. Ultimune is a bouncy fluid that immediately soaks into the skin, leaving it plump and soft to touch. It's also formulated with bio-fermented plant extracts for long-lasting hydration. No dryness or dullness, just a glowy sheen.

Prevention over cure

Shiseido is unique in its approach to skincare in that the brand prefers to think about its products as preventative. They don't believe in quick fixes — Ultimune has always been about preserving skin health long-term. "The concept of [Ultimune] hasn't changed since the initial launch in 2014," Wanatabe shares. "The concept is pre-symptomatic — this approach has been prioritised in Japanese medicine; instead of trying to to cure a disease, we try to maintain optimal health, all the time."

The power of bio-fermented botanicals...

Japanese skincare is well known for its use of plant ingredients, specifically ferments. Ultimune is rich in mushroom, rose water, hibiscus and iris but the key ingredient is the camellia flower. The flower has long been associated with Shiseido (their first-ever fragrance featured camellia oil) but new research in partnership with the Cutaneous Biology Research Center has proven it works to activate memory T-cells, that in turn eliminate ageing cells. Shiseido use almost the entire camellia flower, using bio-fermentation technology inspired by traditional Japanese ki-koji fermentation to ensure the highest possible concentration of antioxidants and amino acids.

"We have a special attachment to camellia — our camellias are grown in Gotoh Island — we've worked with them for more than 10 years," explains Wanatabe. "Ultimune not only utilises the camellia oil, but also the seeds, leaves and stems. These concentrated extracts, especially the fermented seeds, are proven to activate Memory T-cells, causing the immune system to eradicate the triggers that cause skin ageing; it's supporting the skin's innate ability to regenerate itself."

If you want plump, luminous, healthy-looking skin for life (or close to it) it's one to reach for.