In the last 10 years, skincare has hit an inflection point. Our routines are immersive, exhaustive and expertly curated. We have tools, topicals, multi-step systems that help us strive towards glassy perfection.
And yet, sensitivity and its related symptoms – redness, warmth, irritation, chronic flare-ups – are more prevalent than ever. It correlates to skincare maximalism, increased screen time, urban living and chronic stress levels. But is it causational? And is there comfort to be found in modern science, ancient wisdom, or a bit of both?
In a study conducted by The Journal of Women's Health and Development of 20,000 females aged between 18 and 55, more than half claimed their skin was sensitive. “I see sensitive skin, or hear of sensitivity-related skin concerns, daily,” shares Clare McColl, a facialist and the owner of Sydney skin clinic Fenn. “It’s not just a fleeting trend – clients present with symptoms like redness, heat retention, breakouts and inflammation all the time,” she adds. “Sometimes it’s chronic sensitivity, and other times it’s more of a temporary, sensitised state thanks to environmental stress or a routine that’s way too excessive.”
Categorically, sensitive skin isn’t an official medical diagnosis. It exists on a spectrum. “Sensitive skin has historically been used as more of a descriptive term but is increasingly recognised as a skin subtype,” explains Dr Prasanthi Puru, a cosmetic doctor and GP. “It’s defined by heightened reactivity to internal and external aggressors or triggers like topical skincare, weather and temperature, stress, UV exposure and pollution. These people have chronic issues with their skin that’s usually predisposed by genetics, nerve hypersensitivity, immune mediated inflammation and impaired skin barrier function.”
“As someone deep in the skincare zeitgeist, I hear of it all the time. Friends will text for routine advice, and when I ask if they have any concerns, the response is always, ‘I’m sensitive’ or ‘My skin always reacts’.”
This differs from sensitisation, or a state of temporary reactivity that can afflict anyone, at any time. “Usually, sensitised skin involves a compromise to the barrier, enabling irritants to penetrate the skin more easily, resulting in an inflammatory response,” Dr Prasanthi adds. “Symptoms are sometimes the same as those experiencing chronic sensitivity, but the difference is that sensitised skin can quickly recover. The main culprits are usually things like excessive acids or retinol, exposure to environmental triggers and some in-clinic procedures like peels, ablative lasers, microneedling and microdermabrasion.”
And then there’s diagnosable conditions, like rosacea or dermatitis. “Both of these are long-term conditions that involve sensitivity, but their underlying causes and symptoms differ,” Dr Prasanthi says. Eczema, or Atopic Dermatitis, is an intensely itchy condition influenced by genetics and environmental factors. “About 70 per cent of people with eczema have a strong family history of it.” Rosacea, which often looks like an intense blush, involves immune drama, neurovascular hyperreactivity and microbial triggers. “Genetics also play a part, while UV rays, stress, wine, spicy foods, and temperature changes are known triggers,” adds Dr Prasanthi.
As someone deep in the skincare zeitgeist, I hear of it all the time. Friends will text for routine advice, and when I ask if they have any concerns, the response is always, ‘I’m sensitive’ or ‘My skin always reacts’. During a recent interview with makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench, she explained that her Microbial Gel Primer was formulated because she constantly experienced models with red, bumpy skin. The virality of French skincare, specifically TikTok products like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast or Avene Cicalfate, has everything to do with the fact the products are focused on calming and soothing. The boom of dermatological drugstore brands such as CeraVe, Cetaphil and QV is another example.
"But based on expert opinion, the excessive use of skincare is almost certainly a factor. Serum layering, exfoliation, cycling retinol — curating a routine has never been so complicated."
Despite the overload of information, pinpointing exactly ‘why’ your skin is suffering can be fruitless. TikTok and Reddit serve up countless potential triggers: incorrect skincare, bad weather, hard water, mould illness, gut issues, hormonal imbalances, stress, fungal infections, not cleansing enough, cleansing too much, washing powder, pollen, medication, menopause, perimenopause, pregnancy… There are thousands of proclaimed ‘miracle cures’, and yet no one can figure it out.
But based on expert opinion, the excessive use of skincare is almost certainly a factor. Serum layering, exfoliation, cycling retinol – curating a routine has never been so complicated. Look at the pandemic. The 10-steps were elaborate and thrilling at the time, but very few of us actually came out glowing on top.
“I always recommend a less-is-more approach for both sensitive and sensitised skin,” shares skin expert and facialist Melanie Grant. “Opt for a simple routine, using gentle products free of irritants like fragrance and essential oils. Avoid harsh scrubs, cleansing brushes and too many active ingredients.”
It’s difficult to do within an industry that’s obsessed with newness, but our skin is a functioning organ that carries out its own biological processes. Skincare should support these, not go against them. “I believe in less is more, not as a trend but as a grounding principle,” adds McColl. “Sensitive or sensitised skin doesn’t need complexity – it needs consistency, simplicity and a whole lot of barrier love. When the skin is in distress, your goal should be to reduce inflammation, calm heat and restore balance.”
A skincare diet can be a useful place to start: a simple cleanser free from alcohol and foaming agents, soothing moisture and sunscreen. Dr Prasanthi recommends ceramides, squalane, niacinamide at a concentration of two to five per cent, panthenol, oat, centella asiatica, pre- and probiotics as ingredients to reach for. Adversely, she suggests exercising caution around fragrance (natural or synthetic), alcohols, alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids that aren’t buffered or microencapsulated. ‘Clean beauty’ is another contention point: “Ironically, formulations free of preservatives like parabens may rely on potential irritants, such as essential oils, to extend shelf life.”
There are, however, some natural ingredients known to nurture and rebalance skin health, as nature intended. “I love turmeric and sea buckthorn for anti-inflammatory support,” McColls tells RUSSH. She also believes in manuka honey. “The Activist Manuka Honey Mask soothes inflammation and promotes skin repair, it’s so healing and a personal favourite of mine. I use it all the time.”
"It’s difficult to do within an industry that’s obsessed with newness, but our skin is a functioning organ that carries out its own biological processes. Skincare should support these, not go against them."
Interestingly, in the case of Perioral Dermatitis – a common condition that includes a rash around the mouth – it’s often worth cutting back on face oils. “I see this pitfall all the time,” explains McColl. “While oils can be incredibly nourishing, in some cases – particularly when heat and inflammation are already present – they can trap warmth in the skin and exacerbate the issue.”
Of course, there’s always exceptions to the rule – personalised expertise is best.
So, what about our lives? Does being busy, tired, glued to our phones and living in cities have something to do with it? “Research indicates that factors such as prolonged screen time, pollution, frequent travel and chronic stress disrupt the skin’s barrier function, amplify oxidative damage and trigger inflammatory pathways, all of which exacerbate skin sensitivity,” confirms Dr Prasanthi. “While the long-term effects are still being explored, dermatologists have actually noted a correlation between high screen usage and increased reports of skin sensitivity, particularly in urban populations.”
It’s important to note that it’s not just external stimuli that can trigger or worsen sensitivity. “Ultimately, sensitive skin is complex and deeply individual – so it’s always worth looking beyond the surface for the root cause,” McColl adds. “Medications that affect gut health are a lesser-known trigger – because the skin and gut are closely linked, any imbalance in your microbiome can present externally as redness, breakouts or flares. Similarly, coming off hormonal contraception can cause major shifts in oil production, barrier function and reactivity.” Even autoimmune conditions like Lupus can contribute. In this case, it’s essential to look towards trusted healthcare practitioners, while supporting your skin with very few, but high-quality products.
"Overloading our skin and our minds can’t be good. Sleeplessness and nervous tension manifest as physical ailments. Excessive screen time rarely leads to an overarching sense of wellness. It’s okay to enjoy the good life, but everything in moderation."
We obviously can’t avoid screens, stress and the air around us. But we can course correct with selective skincare and a healthy lifestyle. One high tech skin trend that is deemed very effective is LED light therapy. “It is one of the gentlest, most effective tools for calming reactive skin,” explains McColl. “A combination of red and near-infrared light helps reduce inflammation, support the skin barrier, and encourage healing on a cellular level – all without heat or downtime. Unlike many other treatments, LED is something we can safely recommend even during flare-ups, because of its ability to soothe and strengthen from the inside out.”
On some sort of deeper level, we probably know a lot of this. Overloading our skin and our minds can’t be good. Sleeplessness and nervous tension manifest as physical ailments. Excessive screen time rarely leads to an overarching sense of wellness. It’s okay to enjoy the good life, but everything in moderation. Giving our skin space to breathe, rest and reset at its own pace can’t hurt. McColl says it best: “I always hear from clients when they come back from a holiday, and their skin is the best it's been because they only packed a few things.” Consider a pause-and-observe approach: simplify your routine, allow your skin to settle and reintroduce products slowly to identify what truly serves you. Skincare is restorative and the rituals are meant to be savoured, but there’s no need to do too much.
