There’s something about Melbourne in the winter – the cold wraps around you, and suddenly you’re chasing foggy laneways, neon-lit evenings, and bowls of something steaming between gigs. And so when the opportunity came up for me to head down for RISING Festival (happening 4–15 June) this long weekend, I was quick to jump on board. RISING – a city-wide takeover of music, art and strange little pockets of joy tucked into unexpected corners – is now in its fourth year, and gaining significant traction as one of Melbourne's prestige music and arts events. Think: mini-golf in a ballroom, inflatable dog performers, and a sold-out one-off Suki Waterhouse show where every word was sung back in unison. For three nights, I based myself at The Howey on Little Collins, a stylish bolt-hole with just enough distance from the buzz, but steps away from the action. And by day, I drank chai in Carlton and devoured burgers in the CBD.
The weekend was full, fleeting, and a little surreal – just as Melbourne, and RISING, promise to be.
Stay...
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I've been to Melbourne a few times now, but this was my first time staying at The Howey – a contemporary stay in the heart of Melbourne's laneway precinct on Little Collins Street. Check-in and check-out were a breeze (they'll store your suitcases before check-in if you ask), and the room itself was clean and replete with all the necessities – from hairdryers to tea kettles. I stayed in their Urban Superior King Room, which was generously sized, and with a well-appointed shower (a must for me) and great lighting for doing your makeup in the vanity (another must).
But the room's real selling point was its location in amongst the festival's happenings. The lobby downstairs opened up right onto RISING's Night Trade – full of food stalls, bars and art installations (which ranged from the whimsical to the downright bizarre – there was an inflatable dog man roaming one room and an impromptu karaoke bar around the corner). Despite the noise on a street level, my room remained a sanctuary from the hubbub. If you're coming for RISING – I'd highly recommend staying at The Howey if you're priorities are being able to stroll to everything you've booked (or to duck back upstairs for a quick costume change with the weather).
Do...
Obviously, the reason I was in town was to check out some of the festival's programming. It was my first time at RISING, so I wasn't sure what to expect – but I was not disappointed. If your fans of festivals like Dark Mofo, you'll appreciate the eccentricity of the festival's curated lineup. I headed to Swingers: The Art of Mini Golf, which was a mini-golf course erected inside Flinders Street Station's upstairs ballroom. Each hole was an art installation in itself, each designed by a female artist of note; Miranda July, Nabilah Nordin, Kaylene Whiskey, Soda Jerk and more. Between strapping inflatable tails to
But if you're more into art of the sonic variety – there was plenty to lend your ears to. In two days I managed to catch the angelic, honey-soft voice of Californian Jessica Pratt, the sound wall of Brooklyn shoegazers DIIV as part of the Day Tripper festival at Melbourne's Town Hall, and the inimitable Suki Waterhouse – her first and only show in Australia – to a crowd of thousands.
Pratt's Friday night show was a sold-out affair at Melbourne Recital Centre, one of the city's most beautiful performance halls. Pratt was instantly magnetic, a performance whittled down to the basics. Surrounded by her band of four, Pratt strummed and hummed with a voice like honey. And as an audience, we willingly sunk into the depths of her sticky, warm glow. I'd highly suggest giving her 2024 album Here in the Pitch a listen one rainy, cosy evening very soon.
Saturday's affairs were a little more up-tempo, first diving into a set from DIIV at RISING's Day Tripper festival. A short stroll across the street into Melbourne's Town Hall, and a crowd of hundreds had gathered to witness the Brooklyn, New York shoegaze outfit. Dressed in hi-vis and a legionnaires cap, the band was fittingly outfitted for the evening, which pulsed with swelling guitars, looped synths and trippy visuals that admonished politicians and marketed fake pharmaceuticals. But just before the evening's last song, we pried ourselves from the grips of DIIV and into an Uber to head across town to Port Melbourne's PICA: the venue where Suki Waterhouse was soon to take the stage in her first-ever Australian show (and the only show she would be playing in the country). More than 3,000 eager fans had packed the venue in the cold, huddled like penguins. But the temperature was soon forgotten as Waterhouse appeared, like Penny Lane come to life in a fur jacket, oversized sunglasses and platform boots. Every word she sung was cooed back to her by her adoring fans – it's rare, in my experience, to feel the energy of a song so far back in a crowd, but there we were, surrounded by hundreds of fans belting every lyric to each other emphatically. Enamoured and exhilarated, it was time to go home.
Eat...
It's no secret that Melbourne is a foodie's dream – and no matter how packed my schedule, I was determined to get my hands of some of the city's finest. First – for a late-night feed in the city (particularly if you're looking for some calories to consume after a big night at one of RISING's gigs in the city), I'd highly recommend Butcher's Diner. Tucked into an unassuming spot in Melbourne's CBD, it's the perfect late-night burger spot that riffs on the tropes of the classic American diner. We got one of the best cheese burgers I've ever had and some incredible Japanese fried chicken.
For a drink pre- or post- gig, I'd suggest tucking yourself into HER Bar – the bottom floor of a multi-storey bar and restaurant precinct with some of the city's most beautiful interiors. The lighting is soupy, the drinks are punchy, and the heating is ON. Perfect for a wind-down (or head upstairs to Music Room for a pre-game cocktail and dance party).
If you're looking to explore outside of the city on a quiet morning – Fenton Farmhouse in Carlton is a cheerful, casual cafe that I had to circle back to twice (the chai latte and banana bread combo here was too good to have just once). But for something a little more fun, grab yourself a table at Brico in Carlton North. This corner-stop restaurant serves delicious seasonal small plates (best shared between two), as well as regular kitchen takeovers and guest chefs).
Take...
I'm becoming more of an expert at ferrying my belongings on weekend trips like this – and the art of light packing is one I'm close to mastering. First of all – I cannot sing the praises of no checked baggage enough. If you can avoid it, my god you should. I think I saved about 45 minutes of queuing on either end of this trip just by bringing along my trusty July Carry On suitcase. And inside, I kept things minimal. Of course, a good book (this time The Friday Afternoon Club by Griffin Dunne, which I devoured most of in airports). A great moisturiser (Emma Lewisham's Supernatural Day Crème did the job nicely). For day-to-day ferrying I have never strayed from my classic Coach Tabby bag (I'm a silver hardware kind of girl). And last but not least, my new non-negotiable is the Friends With Frank Celemence Blazer, which kept me warm and toasty (it's a 100% wool outer).
