Fashion insiders are already circling their calendars after news broke last night that Pieter Mulier will take the creative reins at Versace. The Belgian designer is exiting Alaïa after its upcoming Summer Autumn 26 show in Paris this March, setting up a closely watched debut for the Italian powerhouse later in the year.
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When does Mulier officially start at Versace?
Mulier’s appointment becomes effective on 1 July 2026, once his final Alaïa runway bow is complete. From that point, he will report directly to executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli and begin shaping his first full vision for the brand.
Why won’t his debut happen immediately?
Versace is notably absent from the Milan Women’s Fashion Week calendar taking place later this month, making an early reveal impossible. With only a short runway window between July and August, the House appears to be allowing Mulier time to design a complete, considered collection rather than rushing one onto the catwalk.
So…when is the first Versace show likely?
Industry logic points squarely to September, during Milan Fashion Week, when Spring 2027 collections are traditionally unveiled. That timing would give Mulier roughly two months to finalise his first Versace lineup – tight, but typical for high-profile creative transitions.
What might that debut focus on?
Bertelli has already signaled that Versace’s core identity won’t be reinvented, but rather reinterpreted. Sources suggest a return toward the glamorous, sensual codes associated with Gianni and Donatella Versace, rather than the more experimental direction of recent seasons.
Why is anticipation so high?
Mulier revitalised Alaïa with sculptural silhouettes, architectural tailoring and cult accessories, driving strong growth and renewed buzz. Translating that precision and modernity into Versace’s bold, maximalist universe is one of the most intriguing creative challenges of the decade.
