The Onitsuka Tiger FW25 show mastered unstudied cool

WORDS Cassandra Dimitroff PHOTOGRAPHY GoRunway PUBLISHED Thu, 27 Feb 2025 - 5:10 pm

It’s a feeling we all chase. That rare, unstudied cool – like you’ve just rolled out of bed, pulled on a few trusted layers, and somehow nailed the perfect look. And the Onitsuka Tiger FW25 show has bottled that insouciance, blending Japanese precision with a devil-may-care attitude.

Some brands chase trends. Others cultivate an attitude. Onitsuka Tiger has always been the latter, perfecting a kind of effortless cool that feels just as at home on the streets of Tokyo as it does in a dimly lit show space in Milan. For Fall Winter 2025, the brand leans even further into this philosophy – quietly confident, always considered, never overthought.

The location ...

As guests entered through a long, yellow-curtained hallway to the Onitsuka Tiger FW25 show (a yellow that has become synonymous with their tapered leather MEXICO 66 trainer donned by Uma Thurman in Kill Bill), there was anticipation in the air. The show itself was staged in a dark, warehouse-like space that contrasted a sense of industrial polish to what was otherwise a warm and soft collection.

The clothes ...

For the Onitsuka Tiger FW25 collection, the brand leant into its Japanese sensibilities, tapping into a palette of new neturals that included slate greys and blues, buttery pale yellows, khaki greens and soft checks. As expected for a fall-winter collection, outerwear was the hero – from zip-cord embellished fleeces to knee0length parkas capped with cord collars. Patent leather was given a soft and supple feel for slouchy leather jackets, and knits were as chunky and oversized as they could get.

Footwear – a key accessory for the brand – came in the form of studded ballet flats with oversized buckles, studded sneakers, and slouchy – and belted – leather riding boots. Overall the vibe felt lacadaisical – insouciant – like when you roll out of bed, throw on a few trans-seasonal neutral and somehow look the best you ever have. There's a devil-may-care attitude at play, but still with a distinct eye for the details. The kind of effortlessness that only takes place when your haphazardly throwing on clothes that were at some other point in time actually a very well thought out curation.

While the collection has plenty of whimsy – a tassle tie, sure – why not? – but its rooted in pragmatism. It's versatile, wearable and yet utterly of the moment.