It's not often that fashion shows send clothes down the runway looking slightly crumpled. But leave it to Miuccia Prada to turn that expectation on its head. On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, the designer transported showgoers to the monumental halls of Palais d’Iéna — though any expectations of polish were quickly undone by the runway itself: a patchwork of dirt and grass that filled the cavernous space with the scent of soil. The contrast between the grand architecture and the raw floor set the tone for the collection: clothes that felt grounded and close to the body.

Miuccia Prada has long been interested in how women actually wear their clothes, and at Miu Miu this season that idea felt particularly direct. Many of the garments looked slightly worn, crinkled or softened, as though they had already been part of someone’s wardrobe. Tank dresses clung to the body, leather coats appeared gently rumpled, and tailoring was narrow and slightly shrunken, as though it had perhaps been passed down from the '90s.

There was also plenty of familiar Miu Miu-isms, from sheer drop-waist dresses scattered with crystal embroidery and delicate appliqué, to logo T-shirts, cotton skirts and neat linen dresses. Outerwear, too, carried much of the collection. Coats in caramel, burgundy and deep navy hung loosely off the shoulders, while cropped puffers lined with shearling and ombré textured coats  added both volume and a sense of warmth.

As always, accessories were slightly off-kilter but endlessly covetable. Bubble-soled, sequin-embellished sneakers stomped down the runway, introducing a new spin on the house’s perennially sold-out footwear. Fur-effect trapper hats and mittens had us dreaming of an aprés-ski affair, while zig-zag headbands and thin, wire-framed glasses added a final note of offhand ’90s nostalgia.

Casting, as always at Miu Miu, felt like part of the narrative. Actors and models from different generations walked side by side: Chloë Sevigny appeared early in the lineup in a shearling-trimmed leather blazer and A-line mini dress, followed by Diana Silvers in a cotton skirt layered beneath a fur-lined raincoat. Later came modelling icons Gemma Ward and Kristen McMenamy, before Gillian Anderson closed the show. Together, they formed a kind of generational portrait: women with different histories and identities, each bringing their own presence to the clothes.