Perched above the rooftops of Rome on the slopes of the Pincian Hill, the Villa Medici occupies a quietly commanding position at the edge of the city’s historic centre. Built in the mid-16th century for the influential Medici family, the villa has long been associated with art, culture and intellectual life. And since 1803, it has housed the French Academy in Rome, established under Napoleon Bonaparte, welcoming generations of artists, composers and writers who have lived and worked within its walls.
The building itself carries this layered history with ease – its Renaissance façade lined with fragments of ancient Roman sculpture, its expansive gardens opening onto sweeping views across the city. And recent renovations by India Mahdavi in 2023 have introduced a softer, contemporary sensibility to the interiors.
It is here that RUSSH food writer Miriam Al-Noah resided on a recent trip to Rome, drawn by the gravity of a place that has shaped creative lives for centuries.
Place: Villa Medici, The French Academy, Rome
Address: Viale della Trinità dei Monti, 1, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Contact: +39 06 67611
Designed and curated by …
Originally designed in the mid-16th century by architects Giovanni and Annibale Lippi, Villa Medici has been shaped over centuries by many incredible artists, composers, writers and thinkers. In 2023, the rooms were renovated by architect and designer India Mahdavi. Her intervention introduces a contemporary perspective allowing past and present to coexist harmoniously in the villa.
I stay here because …
This is not a typical hotel stay, but a living piece of history. I was so inspired to stay in a place that so many creative minds have passed through, shaping not only the city, but the arts worldwide over the years. The guided tour was a highlight and must if you're visiting.
My last visit was …
July 2024. In the height of summer, the villa felt like a hidden sanctuary above the city.
What I love about the room …
The effortless contrast of old and new – and the giant bed!
Amenities worth a mention …
I love a bathroom that is a bit of a statement, and this definitely does not fall short of that. Bright, geometric and playful. You definitely feel special popping on some makeup here before heading out for dinner.
It’s the details that count …
And in this case, it’s the story. Our room was the 'Debussy' room, named in honour of the composer's residency at Villa Medici from 1885 to 1887. We played Clair de Lune through a speaker, gazing out over the same views he once knew.
Room service order …
No room service here. Instead, stroll down the hill to Buccone Vini e Olii, pick up a beautiful bottle of wine, and sip it back in your room as you watch the sun set over Rome.
Places nearby worth frequenting …
The villa's seven-hectare gardens connect directly to the expansive Borghese Gardens, where you might even spot peacocks roaming freely. In the opposite direction, a short walk downhill leads you straight to the iconic Spanish Steps and dives you back into the hustle and bustle of the city.
The one thing I always return home with …
Any time I visit Rome, I leave with a very full stomach and a desire to eat pasta every day for the rest of my life.
Gallery …
Walk through the gardens and make your way to Galleria Borghese. Home to famous works by Bernini, Caravaggio and Raphael.
Dinner…
Armando al Pantheon or Trattoria Al Moro for a classic Roman meal. End the night with a nightcap at Enoteco L'Antidoto.
