
Milan fall winter 25 is next on the fashion week circuit and is already is rolling in hot, and while anticipation always runs high, this season feels particularly rich in anticipation.
Less than a month after Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci, the house’s latest collection for this season was crafted by its in-house design team, that felt like an homage to the brand’s Florentine roots in the ’60s and ’70s. A glimpse into the past, but with eyes firmly on the future, while we wait patiently for their next creative director to assume the role. Meanwhile, DSquared2 brought a high-octane spectacle, layering leather, Western motifs, and KISS-inspired merchandised T-shirts, capped off with a performance by Doechii to close the show.
With a packed schedule, including Prada, Emporio Armani, Fendi, and more to come, Milan still has plenty to offer. Notably absent this season is Bottega Veneta, as we wait later in the year for their first collection under Louise Trotter. But with major houses and buzz-worthy newcomers set to unveil their visions, we’re bringing you all the Milan fall winter 25 highlights below.
DSquared2
Doechii opening the Dsquared2 fall winter 25 show in an “ICON” T-shirt, walking to her own song Nissan Altima, and pulling out a fake cigarette set the tone for a collection that was pure, unfiltered attitude. Y2K nostalgia collided with The Matrix but with a yeehaw twist, and a touch of KISS-inspired rock theatrics. Distressed denim, leather trenches, oversized faux furs, and graphic tees dominated the runway, styled with fringed chaps, cyber-futuristic sunglasses, and metallic cowboy boots. Rhinestones, bedazzled waistbands, and supersized belt buckles leaned into the brand’s signature maximalism. Accessories went big with chunky silver chains, statement trucker hats, and leather gloves added an extra punch of irreverence. Hair was spiked, slicked, or cowboy-hatted, while heavy black eyeliner and glossy lips channeled peak 2000s rockstar energy (and KISS). The attitude of the models undeniable, stomping with swagger, flipping jackets over their shoulders and flashing metal-studded grins. And closing the show with unapologetic confidence, was supermodel Naomi Campbell.
Jil Sander
It comes to a bittersweet moment this season for the brand, after presenting their fall winter collection it was announced that the husband and wife duo Lucia and Luke Meier were stepping down as co-directors for Jil Sander after 8 years. But it wasn't without going out in a bang. One of the brands strongest focal points in their collection almost always lies in their sartorial work. This season we've seen a display of the brand's signature sartorial excellence. The fall winter 2025 lineup was a study in contrasts, blending delicate femininity with edgy, punk-inspired elements. Shimmering sequinned fringe adorned dresses and outerwear, catching the light against a darkened runway, while feathery details added movement to woollen and fur pieces. Delicate bows graced long, sculptural dresses, juxtaposed with half-kilts belted over garments and silver hardware reminiscent of safety-pin necklaces and studded footwear. The predominantly monochromatic palette of black, white, and greys was punctuated by vibrant hues of bubblegum pink, royal blue, and red.
FENDI
For its centennial celebration, FENDI delivered a collection that felt both reverential and forward-thinking between heritage and modernity. Silvia Venturini presented a wardrobe rooted in quiet luxury. The runway was rooted in contrasts: structured wool coats softened by diaphanous lace, faux mink layered over satin slip dresses, and tough leather corsetry offset by fluid tailoring. The house’s signature accessories, the Baguette and Peekaboo were reinterpreted with plush textures and unexpected proportions, while the Spy Bag made its triumphant return, subtly nodding to the early 2000s without falling into nostalgia. On the runway featuring Mona Tougaard, Gabbriette, Irina Shayk, Alex Consani, and Paloma Elsesser, brought these looks to life.
Diesel
In true Diesel style, controlled chaos was at the forefront of the mind, where the graffiti background, despite its loudness, put a spotlight on the monochromatic tweed sartorial collection presented. But this is Glenn Martens we’re talking about, nothing is ever that straightforward. This show was a study in contrasts, where heritage tailoring collided with the brand’s signature irreverence. Classic wool suiting was lacquered, tweed was distressed to the point of disintegration, and houndstooth came frayed at the edges, as if it had been through a post-punk rapture. Denim as always was given its moment, shredded and sculpted into barely-there silhouettes, while sculptural leather outerwear boasted exaggerated collars and unfinished hems, as if caught mid-rebellion. There was a distinct subversiveness to the collection, heightened by alien-esque contact lenses and oversized bug-eyed sunglasses, pushing the collection into a dystopian sartorial future. Martens continues to toy with expectation, warping the boundaries between the refined and the raw, that it makes us excited to see what he will do next in his next role as creative director at Maison Margiela.
Blumarine
The Blumarine show unfolded with an edge of nocturnal romance. Irina Shayk emerged first opening the show, wrapped in a sharply tailored coat buttoned with shearling. David Koma’s new era at the house leans into contrast: structure and fluidity, armour and allure. The thistle, a motif steeped in duality, protection laced with fragility, was placed across jeans in crystal appliqués and wove itself into silver-threaded embellishments. Corsets cinched the weightless drape of organza and chiffon, while moments of metal punctuated the softness. But at its core, Koma insists, Blumarine remains a world of femininity and beauty.
Versace
Power, confidence, untouchable allure is what was conjured in this collection, a declaration of strength. “This is a collection of Versace Superheroes,” Donatella Versace proclaimed, and the runway delivered. Draped in sculpted silks, razor-sharp tailoring, and high-shine metallics, models embodied the house’s indomitable spirit. Baroque prints clashed with liquid chainmail, while reimagined silhouettes from Donatella’s 1998 Atelier Versace debut spoke of history rewritten in gold thread. Duvet coats, borrowed from Versace Home, became armour, a luxe shield for the fearless. Pure Versace DNA, pulsing through every stitch, silhouette, and walk.
Images from GoRunway