Menswear month is continuing abroad, this week with the Spring Summer 2026 edition of Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Alongside heavyweight houses like Prada and Armani, there's plenty else to get excited about – from season opener, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, to British designer Paul Smith (a Paris regular making his Milan debut).
This season also sees new additions including Vivienne Westwood, which recently showed bridal in Barcelona, and rising names like Qasimi and Saul Nash. Absent from the runway are Gucci, Fendi and Zegna – three major Italian houses opting out this season – while brands like Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Tod’s and DSquared2 are rethinking their formats with more intimate presentations and special events.
For all the season's highlights, read on...
Emporio Armani
Despite recovering from an illness and being absent from the runway, Giorgio Armani's latest Emporio collection in Milan was a showstopper. Titled Origins, the collection marked a return to Armani’s fascination with global aesthetics, featuring tassels, passementerie, beading and silk pyjama suiting in a vibrant Marrakech palette. The collection paid homage to his 90s Morocco campaigns, replete with flowing tunics, harem pants and carpet bags. The show opened unexpectedly with a dystopian-futurist twist: a swift EA7 segment layered like something out of Villeneuve's Dune films, and soundtracked by desert winds.
Prada
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada's S26 Prada menswear show set a softer tone at Milan Fashion Week, stripping back the theatrics for the first time in years to reveal the bare industrial beauty of the Fondazione’s Deposito space. Designed in collaboration with OMA, natural light poured through exposed windows, bathing the hangar, while scattered 70s floral shag carpets and ambient bird song created a mood of peaceful surrealism. The result was a show that felt human and introspective – part 1970s daydream (we're definitely seeing some of those Miu Miu inflections comign through in the , part functional, meditative reset.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani's Milan show proved the inventor of relaxed tailoring remains its king – showing a massive 127 looks across block-coloured segments. From neutral greys, greens and beiges to rich purples, fuchsias and navy hues – each look felt effortlessly insouciant, undone and yet elevated. Slip on shoes, pocket bags tied around necks and oversized duffles also played into the collection's pared-back appeal.
Telfar
View this post on Instagram
The Liberian-American fashion designer Telfar Clemens hosted his first runway show in more than five years to celebrate the brand's 20th anniversary this Juneteenth weekend in New York City. Held in an alleyway behind Telfar's flagship store in SoHo, fans and loyalists like Solange Knowles, Kelela, Luar’s Raul Lopez (who walked the runway) and more gathered for the megawatt showing. On the runway, ombré tanks looped into modular silhouettes, while cotton polos were wrapped and worn backward like modern uniforms. Hybrid sarong trousers, logo windbreakers and pyjama-style separates were also on display.
Montblanc
Wes Anderson teamed up with Montblanc once again for a whimsical short film premiere – this time set inside a transformed train depot in Milan, complete with candlelight and choreographed fashion moments. The night felt like stepping into a cinematic dream, with guests boarding the Montblanc Train and disembarking into a world of vintage carriages, leather jackets, and literary inspiration. From Joey King and Daniel Brühl to co-director Roman Coppola, the event brought together global stars to celebrate storytelling, travel, and the art of writing in signature Montblanc style.
