
L’etoile du Nord train station in Paris, a place designed for transience, became the final destination for Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest vision. Beneath and below, where the usual sounds of departing trains and the scent of metal and motion fill the air, the Louis Vuitton fall winter 25 show unfolded.
There’s always something cinematic about Ghesquière’s collections at Louis Vuitton. This season, his fascination with the ’80s took shape again, not as a mere retrospective but as a conversation between past and present. Power shoulders cut with razor-sharp precision, lacquered leather scrunch boots (some even with a wool trim), slip dresses with lace. Every piece a collision of nostalgia and modernity, a wardrobe caught mid-motion, like train carriages on the rails.
A particularly favourite look was a nylon bomber thrown disrupting the delicate romance of an embroidered slip purple dress, and a pair of sneakers grounding the look even further. Leather blazers were worn-in and effortless, partially masking the slouch of silk trousers that skimmed the floor. A sculpted peacoat, strict in its cut, was offset by skirts that trailed and caught the airwith ease. Ghesquière thrives in tension and structure against softness, precision against spontaneity, the push and pull of the opposites. These looks felt like an elevated reflection of those instinctive, throw-on and throw-off moments, opulent yet instinctively wearable.
Stray Kids star Felix returned to the runway this season, platinum-haired and electric in a sharply tailored checkered trouser set. And sitting front row were friends of the House Emma Stone, Saoirse Ronan, and Ana De Armas. But beyond the spectacle, the quiet details hit hardest. Sculptural bags, firm yet held loose in the hand. The golden age of railway glamour reimagined and train caps tilted just so, lanterns with a glow in one hand, and a piece of luggage in the other. This collection felt like a wardrobe made for the journey, whether through time, cities, or space in between.
And then, just as quickly as the show starred it has finished. What models just swarmed the station, quickly felt desolate as they departed the station, vanishing as swiftly as they arrived. A fleeting moment. A brief encounter. The nature of travel, the nature of fashion.
Image from GoRunway