London Fashion Week has always been a playground for rule-breakers – from Jonathan Anderson’s brainy deconstruction to Martine Rose’s edgy menswear and Simone Rocha’s off-kilter femininity. It’s where Maximilian Davis honed modern elegance before heading to Ferragamo, and where Chopova Lowena transformed folklore into a cult phenomenon.
Now, FW25 is promising to turn the dial up even further. Kicked off by Harris Reed’s dramatic, otherworldly silhouettes, this season is all about immersive experiences and bold innovation. With over 40 shows spread across iconic London venues, we're expecting shows from stalwarts like S.S Daley, Simone Rocha, and Burberry, but with notable absences from JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, and Wales Bonner.
For all the week's highlights, read on.
Harris Reed
Harris Reed opened the week at the Tate Britain, continuing on their journey to push boundaries with silhouette and texture. Reed's longtime friend and muse, Florence Pugh, opened the show with a stirring spoken-word performance of Shakespear's 'All the world's a stage' monologue, which set the tone for what was a theatrical, drama-fuelled collection. Prickly, feather-like lashes and sky-high black platforms were the collection's key accessories, and the collection's focus seemed to be largely on construction, with colour used only as an accent on an otherwise monochromatic series of looks.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha's FW25 showing was true to her gothic-coquette roots. A palette of pastel pinks, blues and florals in shredded silks and chiffons contrasted against what was otherwise a collection with grit. Lots of leathers opened the show (including on opener and RUSSH Novembercover star Anna Robinson and a surprise walk from Alexa Chung), belted, cinched and zippered (HELLO moto-boho) to perfection. Of course, Rocha's signature ballet-inspired flats were the footwear of choice (loving the fur-trimmed Mary-Janes), but otherwise accessories came largely in the form of stuffed animals and ceramic turtles tucked under the nook of each model's arm.
Erdem
Montreal-born, London-based label Erdem showed their FW25 collection at The British Museum a fittingly lofty and grand locale for a label favoured by first ladies and royalty. The collection felt distinctly feminine, although undercut by Erdem's distinctively unpredictable eye. Intricate embroideries, tiered lace gowns and tinsel-covered two-pieces were interspersed between what I would consider to be the heroes of the collection – garments created in collaboration with British painter Kaye Donachie, whose hauntingly beautiful figurative paintings were emblazoned onto gauzy shift dresses and stitched into the corners of tailored outerwear.
Sinead O'Dwyer
Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer's eponymous label showed its FW25 collection off the back of her recent LVMH Prize nomination. O'Dwyer's collection showed off her prowess in balancing the delicate and dominant – and of course continued to highlight a plentitude of body shapes and types, continuing her challenging of conventions in the industry. Cut-outs in bodysuits, boots (made in collaboration with Grounds from Japan as a nods to traditional Irish dancing shoes) and dresses were layered with stockings, garters and suspenders in matching monochromes and wine-stained reds. But there were also buttoned-up white shirts and knee-length bubble shorts, pleated skirts and pussy-bow blouses that offset the collection's ease with a sense of pragmatism.
Burberry
Burberry's FW25 show closed off London Fashion Week at the Tate Britain. Special guests like newly minted White Lotus star Jason Isaacs and Saltburn and Game of Thrones star Richard E. Grant both walked, alongside models and friends of the House like Naomi Campbell and Lila Moss. Burberry's typical jewel-tones and trenches were of course on display, but this time alongside some distinct embroidered leathers, paisley-print velour dresses and thigh-high riding boots (the latter of course a nod to the House's equestrian roots).
