Greece is known for many things. The smell of fresh spanakopita and psaropita wafting from the local fourno downstairs from your accommodation; a richness in history and culture that can be discovered within every corner; an almost suffocating generosity in spirit and in action; and of course, Kostantinos Argiros (IYKYK). But unmistakably, it is Greece’s 277 inhabited islands that remain one of the country’s most desirable attractions.
As hard as I might, it is likely that in my lifetime, I will never visit them all. (That failure, I blame on the university-era trips wasted on repeat visits to Mykonos). But when you turn down the noise of TikTok travel guides and beach club DJ sets, you’ll quickly find that the filotimo – which translates to ‘love of honour’ – that emboldens Greek culture is very much alive and well. And that’s exactly where I found myself this past summer, on an island I had never heard of called Kéa; or as my Greek cousin’s said to me, “Oh, you mean Tzia?”
How to get to Kéa Island
Just a 45-minute boat ride from Athens’ Lavrio Port (a much more civilised experience than that of Pireus or Rafina), Kéa sits within a pocket of islands called the Cyclades; but is nothing like the other islands that inhabit the region. As we board our ferry, it’s clear that we are joining travellers – mostly Greeks – who know something about the island that others don’t. It didn’t take us long to learn that this secret is that one of Greece’s most luxurious and equally authentic islands is one that most people have never heard of.
With a permanent population of 2,300 residents, and a commitment to preserving the untouched beauty of the island, accommodation on Kéa is both bespoke and equally hard to come by. But if I’m being entirely honest, there is one and only place to rest your head (and much more) if you plan to visit.
Where to stay
Carved into the cliffside with the protection of a completely private cove and beach front, you’ll find One&Only Kéa Island. Now, it’s true that nothing worth having in life comes easily, and that can certainly be said about the journey from the island’s port to the property (I wouldn’t recommend looking down during some of the off-road turns). But in true One&Only fashion, comfort and care are always front of mind, and the hotel’s signature fleet of Defenders ensured we not only arrived unscathed, but in style too. This level of detail extends to all forms of transport that are offered by the resort – from the speedboat service to and from Lavrio port, or for those who are in need of a fast transfer, a 15-minute helicopter ride from Athens International Airport. Regardless of how you find yourself on this idyllic island, the chances are, you won’t want to leave. Take it from me.
Design and architecture
Admittedly, it’s hard to know where to start at One&Only Kéa Island. Even without leaving the resort’s walls, there are endless pockets to discover. I took the first 20 minutes on arrival just to enjoy the view… The architecture is impossible to ignore, with the resort paying homage to the island’s architectural traditions, under the design guidance of the legendary John Heah of London’s Heah & Co. As I learnt during my stay, one of the reasons why the resort was under construction for so long, was because of the team’s commitment to reusing and recycling the hand-cut local stone that already existed on the site. It’s a hard feeling to explain in words, but entering the property’s main, atrium-like building, you can instantly feel the sense of historicity; as if there are stories hidden within its walls waiting to be discovered.
These design considerations extend to the other features of the property – incorporating Greek marble, incredible artwork from Greek artists past and present, rounded archways, considered uses of timber and an expression of nature that brings the outdoors, in. And that was before I even entered my room. Unlike any destination I have visited, each of One&Only Kéa Island’s 63 cliff villas feature an expansive sea-view terrace and individual, private infinity pools. One of my favourite moments during my stay was waking early to open the sliding doors that lead from the bedroom to the balcony, diving straight into the pool and enjoying the simplicity of the secluded Vroskopos Bay before the day began. In moments like this, the resort makes you feel like its luxury playground was entirely your own.
Of course, it goes without saying that the remaining features within the room – from the generous cloud-like bed (a perfect spot for a pre-dinner siesta), to the expansive, dual-vanity bathroom – were exactly as you expect, luxurious. But these spaces didn’t compromise on functionality in the name of aesthetic, which made it very easy to see how anyone could spend a week or two here in complete comfort and almost routine.
From beach club to restaurants and in-room dining, hospitality takes centre stage
Despite its exclusivity, there is no shortage of incredible dining and hospitality options within the resort. Kéa is known to be one of the most fertile islands in the Cyclades, and this was evident in every bite. The first meal of our stay was at Bond Beach Club – the resort’s relaxing dining destination right on the sand. The restaurant itself feels like one with the landscape, tables tucked under a canopy of trees and lounges to match the sandstone of the cliff side. I actually dined at the restaurant twice – making the most of the opportunity to dip into the ocean in-between courses. The cuisine takes inspiration from Mediterranean-Asian flavours, resulting in a menu that is vibrant and fresh, but still rooted in many of the Grecian flavours I was craving. Absolutely everything on the menu is worth a try, but if you’re wondering which dishes we ordered twice, the grouper skewers and fish tacos are an absolute must.
If you’re after a more formal dining experience in the evenings, the star of One&Only Kéa Island is of course Atria restaurant. Think elevated Greek flavours with an uninterrupted view of the Aegean Sea – what more could you ask for? Here, you must order your mains cooked on the charcoal for an authentic dining experience. I highly recommend the yellowfin tuna and lamb chops, or ‘paidakia’. But before you settle in for dinner, be sure to spare a moment for a cocktail or two at Kosmos Lobby Bar, the perfect spot for a sundowner. You can’t go wrong with any of the cocktails on the list, but my personal favourite was Aphrodite’s Veil, simply for how unique it was.
Of course, as far as dining opportunities go, there is plenty to explore across the island too, and the incredible concierge team at One&Only have no shortage of recommendations to offer. On our final night, we visited a neighbouring town of Vourkari for an unbelievable, traditional taverna experience at Ennea Kores (Nine Daughters). With a table right on the water’s edge, we ordered all the taverna classics, enjoying unbelievably fresh calamari, the restaurant’s daily pita and a salad with local cheese and plenty of zoumi for dipping. The sunset that evening was one of the most memorable of the trip.
Another unmissable culinary mention is Tyrakeion – a hidden gem ice cream parlour and cheese shop at the entrance of the island’s chora, Ioulida. The recommendation came courtesy of Sotiria Antonopoulou – One&Only Kéa Island’s culture and arts curator and founder of Keos Culture. After an afternoon spent discovering the colourful streets of Ioulida, she suggested we finish with the ice creamery’s famous Rizogalo flavour – a take on the well-known Greek rice pudding (a personal favourite of mine). I don’t think I will ever taste ice cream like that again.
How to spend your time at One&Only Kéa Island
One of the things I really appreciated about our stay was how personal it was. Your resort, and island, experience can truly be customised to highlight the activities and luxury experiences that matter to you. If you have found yourself on Kéa Island to indulge in the deepest level of relaxation, the resort’s three-storey dedicated wellness offering will take you there. Walking into the spa, you feel immediately transported, and the many treatment rooms, steam and saunas and indoor-outdoor pool create a rejuvenating, seafront sanctuary. One of my favourite details of the Elysian treatment is that the therapy has been developed in partnership with Subtle Energies – an Australian skincare brand rooted in Greek island influences and infused with ancient Ayurvedic inspiration. It was so special to have an unexpected piece of home in our experience.
Next door, you’ll find the gym, Pilates and Yoga studio if you’re wanting to break a sweat (though, you can also enjoy a major workout by walking from the beach back to your villa – which we did on one occasion, before we learnt our lesson!) If you’re going to do a spin class anywhere, with the view of the Aegean Ocean is definitely one of the more enviable studio spaces… Tennis and paddle courts are also available and a great activity to book in especially if you are travelling with friends or family. And if exploring the terrain and hidden coves of Kéa is high on your list, you can find a plethora of hiking and biking trails at your disposal.
But of all the experiences on offer, adventure of land and sea is at the heart of what is most special and unique to One&Only Kéa Island. Guests have the opportunity to explore the resort’s signature guided diving experience – for both beginner and advanced divers alike – with dive master Yannis Tzavelakos. Or if you prefer to keep your feet on the ground, you can learn more about Aegean culture and the mythology of ‘Hydroussa’ a lush island of water nymphs allegedly ruined by divine jealousy, with Sotiria Antonopoulou. Or explore beneath the surface with resident archaeologist Petroula Tatsopoulou, who will guide you on a hike to the ancient city of Karthea, where you can explore the ruins of the amphitheatre and the temples of Athena and Apollo.
In an era of overexposed destinations and algorithm-driven itineraries, Kéa feels refreshingly immune to the noise. It is a place for travellers who value substance over spectacle, for those who understand that true indulgence lies in privacy, craftsmanship and connection – to land, culture and sea alike. Leaving the island, I realised that the most luxurious thing One&Only Kéa Island gives you isn’t five-star comfort (though there is plenty of that), but the rare sensation of having discovered somewhere before everyone else does.
