Arriving in Istanbul is an experience of sensory overload: the smell of coffee and roasted chestnuts, the screech of seagulls over the Golden Horn, the call to prayer, the sheer volume of people moving through the streets, the traffic... and the heat. We are usually there in the warmer months. There is a chaos about Istanbul that works. It is where Asia meets Europe, and you can feel this melding of shared history, tradition and influences in the city's pulse as people negotiate the busy, narrow streets built for another time.
We love that Istanbul just is Istanbul, unapologetically so. Having inspired and hosted travellers and traders since time immemorial, it is no stranger to influence but always feels culturally self-assured. It does not bend the knee in the same way homogenisation seems to envelop other places in the world. There is a cultural velocity to the place and the people that seems to sustain an unchanging rhythm—but we, too, are just passing through. We can only see and experience that which we do, or maybe even want to, for surely our desire for an authentic experience shapes our gaze.
There are countless great places to stay in Istanbul, but we always choose the Bank Hotel in the Karaköy district, adjacent to the Galata Tower. Converted from a former bank, the hotel is agorgeous blend of grand 19th-century and contemporary architecture. Check out the rooftop bar— you will be greeted with excellent service and a stunning view across the Golden Horn.
It's an unbeatable location that we choose over and over again for its charm and convenience. The hotel is also perfectly positioned for an early dawn walk across the Galata bridge, passing a multitude of fishermen and seagulls. The traffic in Istanbul is relentless, and the best way to get around is by foot. We love to walk everywhere and immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds, and smells; we only ever use taxis to get to and from the airport, but otherwise, the light rail is also very easy to use.
Once across the bridge, you will arrive at the old spice markets, also known as the EgyptianBazaar, established over 450 years ago. The markets are a visual delight, filled with endless piles of colourful spices, dried fruits, and sweets delicately piled on to catch the eye of the curious.
Keep walking beyond the spice markets and follow the winding streets up the hill to the Grand Bazaar. We have walked the Grand Bazaar for days on end and still have not seen everything there is to see —it is that vast. Established in the 15th century, it is one of the world's largest covered markets —over 30000 square metres, hosting thousands of stores, vendors, traders, andartisans. It's a destination heaving with activity, which can be overwhelming - we recommend getting an early start. We love our time in this place as a boundless source of inspiration: you'll find endless measures of jewellery, textiles, carpets, leather goods, fashion, antiques, spices, and great food!
If you appreciate architecture and antiquities, the Basilica Cistern is a must-see in Istanbul. Only a10-minute walk from the Grand Bazaar, this stunning example of a Roman-era cistern is also known in Turkish as The Sunken Palace because of its beauty and the grandeur of its proportions.Originally built about 1500 years ago to store and supply water to Constantinople, it recently reopened for people to explore after a lengthy maintenance period, and it was well worth the wait and effort. We have actually taken inspiration from Basilica Cistern's vaulted ceilings while designing our (much, much smaller) Temple of the Sun Sydney flagship store, which will open in Paddington in March.
Across the Galata bridge in the opposite direction, away from the Grand Bazaar, you'll find theGalata Tower and Istikal Cadessi. Essentially, it is a long shopping mall filled every evening with a throng of the young and restless... But explore the back streets of Istikal Cadessi and on into Cihangir, and you will find an emerging scene of bars, cafés and pop-ups featuring up-and-coming designers, ceramicists, glass blowers and jewellers. Walk deeper into Cihangir for restaurants that have stood the test of time and continue to deliver the most incredible Turkish food.
Our favourite among those restaurants is Cihangir Balıkçısı, a seafood destination with sublime food and atmosphere. We recommend the meze freshly prepared daily, but everything we have tried has been delicious.Nearby is also a cafe we love to frequent for brunch, Cuma. It has a gorgeous little courtyard that offers a welcome respite from the city's buzz, and the food and service are always excellent. We always drink Turkish coffee when in Turkey, medium sweet—perfection. Before leaving the area, make sure to check out the antique shops nearby.
Following brunch, you might like to treat yourself to a genuinely divine hamam experience at the Ağa Hamamı, just a short walk away from Cuma. The oldest hamam in Istanbul, Ağa Hamamı is known for providing an authentic Turkish Hamam experience that is truly unforgettable. The place has a fascinating history; originally, it was the private family hamam and the hunting lodge of Mehmed the Conqueror, the sultan who conquered Constantinople and ended the Eastern Roman Empire. Book ahead as it can be busy, particularly during peak seasons.
We often eat at Salon Galata; the décor is warm and inviting and has an old-world European charm about it. There is a dinner menu, but we particularly loved it for breakfast or an afternoon snack — or anytime to sit, drink coffee, people-watch and mellow in the heat as the day passes by.
If you have enough time or desire to get out of the city for a day, a ferry trip to one of the Princes Islands is a must. Only about an hour away, we personally love Burgaz Island —probably because of Yonna's family connection, having spent every summer there as a child. Take your swimmers and choose from several cafes for a long leisurely lunch prior to returning to Istanbul by ferry.
